Essentials: The Biology of Taste Perception & Sugar Craving | Dr. Charles Zuker
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Welcome to Huberman Lab Essentials,
where we revisit past episodes for the
most potent and actionable science-based
tools for mental health, physical
health, and performance.
I'm Andrew Huberman and I'm a professor
of neurobiology and opthalmology at
Stanford School of Medicine. And now for
my discussion with Dr. Charles Zooker.
Charles, thank you so much for joining
me today.
>> My pleasure. I want to ask you about
many things related to taste and
gustatory perception. But maybe to start
off and because you've worked on a
number of different topics in
neuroscience, not just taste, how should
the world and people think about
perception? How it's different from
sensation? And what leads to our
experience of life in terms of vision,
hearing, taste, etc.
>> The world is made of real things. You
know, this here is a glass
and this is a chord and this is a
microphone. But the brain is only made
of neurons that only understand
electrical signals.
So how do you transform that reality
into nothing but electrical signals that
now need to represent the world
and that process is we can is what we
can operationally define as perception
in the senses
let's say alactory
other taste vision you know we can very
straightforwardly separate detection
from perception. Detection is what
happens when you take a sugar molecule,
you put it in your tongue, and then a
set of specific cells now sense that
sugar molecule. That's detection. You
haven't perceived anything yet. That is
just your cells in your tongue
interacting with this chemical. But now
that cell gets activated and sends a
signal to the brain and now detection
gets transformed into perception.
And he's trying to understand how that
happens. That's been the
the maniacal
drive
of my entire career in neuroscience.
How does the brain ultimately transform
detection into perception so that it can
guide actions and behaviors? So if I
want to begin to explore all of these
things that the brain does,
I felt I have to choose a sensory system
that affords
some degree of simplicity
in the way that the input output
relationships are put together. and in a
way that still can be used to ask every
one of these problems that the brain has
to ultimately compute, encode, and
decode.
And what was remarkable about the taste
system at the time that I began working
on this
is that nothing was known about the
molecular basis of taste.
You know, we knew that we could taste
what has been usually defined as the b
the five basic taste qualities. Sweet,
sour, bitter, salty, and umami. Umami is
a Japanese word that means yummy,
delicious.
And that's in nearly every animal
species the taste of amino acids. and in
humans is mostly associated with the
taste of MSG monos sodium glutamate one
amino acid in particular and so the
beautiful thing of the system is that
the lines of input are limited to five
and each of them has a predetermined
meaning you're born with that specific
veilance value for each taste of sweet
umami and low salt are attractive taste
qualities. They evoke appetitive
responses. I want to consume them.
And bitter and sour
are innately predetermined to be
aversive. In the case of bitter, it's
very easy to actually look at see them
happening in animals because the first
thing you do is you stop leaking. Then
you put a unhappy face. Then you squint
your eyes and then you start gagging.
And that entire thing happens by the
activation of a bitter molecule in a
bitter sensing cell in your tongue.
>> It's incredible.
>> It's it's it's again the magic of the
brain. You know how how it it's able to
encode and decode these extraordinary
actions and behaviors in response of
nothing but a simple very you know
unique sensory stimuli. This palette of
five basic tastes accommodates all the
dietary needs of the organism. Sweet to
ensure that we get the right amount of
energy. Umami to ensure that we get
proteins, another essential nutrient.
Salt, the three appetitive ones to
ensure that we maintain our electrolyte
balance. Bitter to prevent the ingestion
of toxic nauseous chemicals. Nearly all
bitter tasting, you know, things out in
the wild are bad for you. And sour most
likely to prevent ingestion of spoiled
acid,
fermented foods. And that's it. That is
the pallet that we deal with. Now, of
course, there's a difference between
basic taste and flavor. Flavor is the
whole experience. Flavor is the
combination of multiple tastes coming
together together with smell, with
texture, with temperature,
with the look of it that gives you what
you and I would call the full sensory
experience. But but we scientists need
to reduce the the problem into its basic
elements so we can begin to break it
apart before we put it back together. So
when we think about the sense of taste
and we try to figure out how these lines
of information go from your tongue to
your brain and how they signal and how
they get integrated and how they trigger
all these different behaviors, we look
at them as individual qualities. So we
give the animals sweet or we give them a
bitter, we give them sour. We avoid
mixes.
Think of it as lines of information.
Just separate lines like the keys of a
piano. Yeah.
sweet sour beam. You play the key and
you activate that one chord and that one
chord in the case of a piano leads to a
note you know a tune and in the case of
taste lead to an action and a behavior.
>> If you would describe the sequence of
neural events leading to a perceptual
event of taste.
>> We have taste bats distributed in
various parts of the tongue. So there is
a map on the distribution of taste buds
but each taste bud has around a 100
taste receptor cells and those taste
receptor cells can be of five
types. Yeah. Sweet, sour, bitter, salty
or umami. And for the most part
all taste buds have the representation
of all five taste qualities. Now there's
no question that there is a slight bias
for some taste like bitter is
particularly enriched at the very back
of your tongue and there is a teological
basis for that actually a biological
basis for that. That's the last line of
defense before you swallow something
bad.
And so let's make sure that the very
back of your tongue has plenty of these
bad news receptors
so that if they get activated you can
trigger a gagging reflex and get rid of
this that otherwise may kill you. The
important thing is that you know after
the receptors for these five the the
detectors the molecules that sense sweet
sour be to mommy. These are receptors,
proteins found on the surface of taste
receptor cells that interact with these
chemicals. And once they interact, then
they trigger the cascade of events,
biochemical events inside the cell that
now sends an electrical signal that says
there is sweet here or there is salt
here. Let's compare and contrast sweet
and bitter as we follow their lines from
the tongue to the brain. So the first
thing is that the two evoke
diametrically opposed behaviors. If we
have to come up with two sensory
experience that represent polar
opposites, it will be sweet and bitter.
So then the signals, if we follow now
these two lines, they're really like two
separate keys at the two ends of this
keyboard. And you press one key and you
activate this chord. So you activate the
sweet cells throughout your oral cavity
and they all converge into a group of
sweet neurons. In the next station which
is still outside the brain is one of the
taste ganglia.
These are the neurons that intervate
your tongue and the oral cavity.
>> Where do they sit approximately? Are
there
>> around there?
>> Yeah, right here around the the lymph
nodes more or less.
>> You got it. And there are two main
ganglia
that innervate the vast majority of all
taste buds in the oral cavity. And then
from there that sweet signal goes onto
the brain stem. The brain stem is the
entry of the body into the brain. And
there are different areas of the brain
stem and there are different groups of
neurons in the brain stem. And there's a
unique area in a unique topographically
defined
location
in the rostral side of the brain stem
that receives all of the taste input.
>> A very dense area of the brain.
>> A very rich area of the brain. Exactly.
And from there, this sweet signal goes
to this other area higher up on the
brain stem. And then it goes through a
number of stations where that sweet
signal goes from sweet neuron to sweet
neuron to sweet neuron to eventually get
to your cortex.
And once it gets to your taste cortex,
that's where meaning is imposed into
that signal. It's then this is what the
data suggests that now you can identify
this as a sweet stimuli
>> and how quickly does that all happen?
>> You know the time scale of the nervous
system it's fast. Yeah. And
>> within less than a second.
>> Yeah. And and in fact we can demonstrate
this because we can stick electrodes at
each of these stations. You deliver the
stimuli and within a fraction of a
second you see now the response in this
following stations. Now it gets to the
cortex and now in there you impose
meaning to that taste. There's an area
of your brain that represents the taste
of sweet in taste cortex and a different
area that represents the taste of
bitter. In essence, there is a
topographic map of these taste qualities
inside your brain.
>> How much plasticity do you think there
is there? And in particular across the
lifespan because I think one of the most
salient examples of this is that kids
don't seem to like certain vegetables,
but they all are hardwired to like sweet
tastes. And yet you could also imagine
that one of the reasons why they may
eventually grow to incorporate
vegetables is because of some knowledge
that vegetables might be
>> good for you,
>> better for them. Is there a change in
the receptors that can explain the
transition from wanting to avoid
vegetables to being willing to eat
vegetables simply in childhood to to
early development?
>> It tastes we just told you that's you
know predetermined hardwire but
predetermined hardwire doesn't mean it's
not modulated by learning or experience.
It only means that you are born
liking sweet and dislike in bitter. And
we have many examples of plasticity.
Coffee, it has an associated gain to the
system. And that gain to the system,
that positive veilance that emerges out
of that negative signal is sufficient to
create that positive association. And in
the case of coffee, of course, is
caffeine in activating a whole group of
neurotransmitter systems that give you
that that that high associated with
coffee. So yes, this T system is
changeable. It's malleable and is
subjected to learning and experience.
>> Can you imagine a sort of a system by
which people could leverage that where
does this this desensitizing happens
that's the term that we use I think it
happening at multiple stations
it's happening at the receptor level
i.e. the cells in your tongue that are
sensing that sugar
as you activate this receptor and it's
triggering activity after activity after
activity eventually you exhaust the
receptor again I'm using terms which are
extraordinarily loose the receptor gets
to a point where it under goes a set of
changes chemical changes
where it now signals far less
efficiently
or it even gets removed from the surface
of the cell and that is a huge side of
this modulation.
And then the next I believe is the
integrated again loss of signaling that
happens by continuous activation of the
circuit at each of these different
neural stations from the tongue to the
ganglia from the ganglia to the first
station in the brain stem a second
station in the brain stem to the
phalamus then to the cortex. So there
are multiple steps that this signal is
traveling. Now you might say why if this
is a label line why do you need to have
so many stations and that's because the
taste system is so important to ensure
that you get what you need to survive
that it has to be subjected to
modulation by the internal state and
each of these nodes provides a new site
to give it plasticity and modulation I'm
going to give you one example of of of
how the internal state changes the way
the taste system works. works. Salt
is very appetitive at low concentrations
and that's because we need it. It's our
electrolyte balance requires salt. Every
one of their neurons uses salt as the
most important of the ions, you know,
with potassium to ensure that you can
transfer these electrical signals within
and between neurons. But at high
concentrations, let's say ocean water is
incredibly aversive. And we all know
this because we gone to the ocean and
then when you get it in your mouth, it's
not that great. However, if I salt
deprive you now, this incredibly high
concentration of salt, one molar sodium
chloride, becomes amazingly appetitive
and attractive.
What's going on in here? Your tongue is
telling you this is horrible, but your
brain is telling you you need it. And
this is what we call the modulation of
the taste system by the internal state.
>> I'd love for you to talk about the
aspects of gut brain signaling that
drive our or change our perceptions and
behaviors that are completely beneath
our awareness.
>> Yes. You know, the brain
needs to monitor the state of every one
of our organs. It has to do it. This is
the only way that the brain can ensure
that every one of those organs are
working together in a way that we have
healthy physiology. This is a two-way
highway where the brain is not only
monitoring but is now modulating back
what the body needs to do. And that
includes all the way from monitoring the
frequency of heartbeats and the way that
inspiration and aspirations in the
breathing cycle operate to what happens
when you ingest sugar and fat. Let me
give you an example. So Pablo in his
classical experiments in conditioning,
you know, associative conditioning, he
would take a bell, it will ring the bell
every time he was going to feed the dog.
Eventually the dog learn to associate
the ringing of the bell with food
coming. The dog now in the presence of
the bell alone will start to salivate
and we will call that you know
neurologically speaking an anticipatory
response. Neurons in the brain that form
that association now represent food is
coming and they're sending a signal to
motor neurons to go into your salivary
glands to squeeze them. So you release
you know you know saliva because you
know food is coming. But what's even
more remarkable is that those animals
are also releasing insulin in response
to a bell. Somehow the brain created
these associations and there are neurons
in your brain now that no food is coming
and send a signal somehow all the way
down to your pancreas that now it says
release insulin because sugar is coming
down. Now the main highway that is
communicating the state of the body with
the brain is a specific bundle of nerves
which emerge from the veagal ganglia the
nos ganglia and so it's the vagus nerve
that it's innervating the majority of
the organs in your body it's monitoring
their function sending a signal to the
brain and now the brain going back down
and saying this is going all right do
this or this is not going to well do
that
>> and I should point out as you well know
every organ spleen pancreas
>> they all must they all must be monitored
I have no doubt that diseases that we
abnormally associated with metabolism
physiology and even immunity are likely
to emerge as diseases conditions states
of the brain I don't think obesity is a
disease of metabolism I believe obesity
is a disease of brain circuits. I do as
well.
>> Yeah. And so this this view that we
have, you know, been working on for the
longest time because, you know, the
molecules that we're dealing with are in
the body, not in the head. You know, led
us to, you know, to view, of course,
these issues and problems as being one
of metabolism, physiology, and so forth.
They remain to be the carriers of the
ultimate signal. But the brain
ultimately appears to be the conductor
of this orchestra of physiology and
metabolism. Now let's go to the gut
brain and sugar. The vagus nerve is made
out of many thousands of fibers that
make this gigantic bundle. And it's
likely as we're speaking that each of
these fibers, they carry meaning that's
associated with their specific task.
This group of fibers is telling the
brain about the state of your heart.
This group of fiber is telling the brain
about the state of your gut. This is
telling your brain about its nutritional
state. They are again to make the same
simple example the keys of this piano.
Now the reason this is relevant because
the magic of this gut brain axis
is the fact that you have these
thousands of fibers really doing
different functions. Okay, let me tell
you about the gut brain axis and our
insatiable appetite for sugar. This is
work of my own laboratory know that
began long ago when we discovered the
sweet receptors. You can now engineer
mice that lack these receptors. So in
essence, these animals will be unable to
taste sweet. And if you give a normal
mouse a bottle containing sweet and
we're going to put either sugar or an
artificial sweetener. All right, they
both are sweet. They have slightly
different tastes,
but that's simply because artificial
sweeteners have some off tastes. But as
far as the sweet receptor is concerned,
they both activate the same receptor,
trigger the same signal. And if you give
an animal option of a bottle containing
sugar or a sweetener versus water, this
animal will drink 10 to one from the
bottle containing sweet. That's the
taste system. it animal goes samples
each one leaks a couple of leaks and
then said uhuh that's the one I want
because it's aitive and because I love
it. Now we're going to take the mice and
we're going to genetically engineer it
to remove the sweet receptors. So these
mice no longer have in their oral cavity
any sensors that can detect sweetness,
be that sugar molecule, be an artificial
sweetener, be anything else that tastes
sweet. And if you give this mice an
option between sweet versus water, it
will drink equally well from both
because he cannot tell them apart
because it doesn't have the receptors
for sweet. So that sweet bottle tastes
just like water. But if I keep the mouse
in that cage for the next 48 hours,
something extraordinary happens. When I
come 48 hours later, that mouse is
drinking almost exclusively
from the sugar bottle. During those 48
hours, the mouse learned that there is
something in that bottle that makes me
feel good. And that is the bottle I want
to consume. And that is the fundamental
basis of our unquenchable desire and our
craving for sugar and is mediated by the
gutbrain access. So we reason if this is
true and it's the gutb brain axis that's
driving sugar preference then there
should be a group of neurons in the
brain that are responding to
postingestive sugar
and lo and behold we identify a group of
neurons in the brain that does this and
these neurons receive their input
directly from the gut brain axis and so
what's happening is that sugar is
recognized ized normally by the tongue
activates an appetitive response. Now
you ingest it and now it activates a
selective group of cells in your
intestines
that now send a signal to the brain via
the veagal ganglia that says I got what
I need. The tongue doesn't know that you
got what you need. It only knows that
you tasted it. This knows that it got to
the point that it's going to be used,
which is the gut. And now it sends the
signal to now reinforce
the consumption of this thing because
this is the one that I needed. Sugar
source of energy. So these are gut cells
that recognize the sugar molecule. I
see.
>> Send a signal and that signal is
received by the veagal neuron directly.
Got it? And this sends a signal through
the gutb brain axis to the cell bodies
of these neurons in the veagal ganglia
and from there to the brain stem to now
trigger the preference for sugar. You
see, you want the brain to know that you
had successful
ingestion and breakdown of whatever you
consume into the building blocks of life
and you know glucose, amino acids, fat
and so you want to make sure that once
they are in the form that intestines can
now absorb them is where you get the
signal back saying this what I want.
Okay, now let me just take it one step
further. This now sugar molecules
activates this unique gut brain circuit
that now drives the development of our
preference for sugar. A key element of
this circuit is that the sensors in the
gut that recognize the sugar do not
recognize artificial sweeteners. It's a
completely different molecule that only
recognizes the glucose molecule, not
artificial sweeteners. This has a
profound impact on the effect of
ultimately artificial sweeteners in
curving our appetite,
our craving, our insatiable desire for
sugar since they don't activate the gut
brain access. They'll never satisfy the
craving for sugar like sugar does. We
have a mega problem with overconumption
of sugar and fat. You know, we're facing
a unique time in our evolution where
diseases of malnutrition
are due to over nutrition. Historically,
diseases of malnutritions have always
been linked to under nutrition. But I
want to just go back to the notion of,
you know, these brain centers that are
ultimately the ones that are being
activated by these essential nutrients.
So sugar, fat and amino acids are
building blocks
of our diets and this is across all
animal species.
So it's not unreasonable then to assume
that dedicated brain circuits would have
evolved to ensure their recognition,
their ingestion and the reinforcement
that that is what I need. And indeed,
you know, animals evolve these two
systems. One is the taste system that
allows you to recognize them and trigger
this predetermined hardwire immediate
responses. Yes. You know, oh my god,
this is so delicious. It's fatty or
umami recognizing amino acids. So that's
the liking pathway. But in the wisdom of
evolution, that's good, but doesn't
quite do it. You want to make sure that
these things get to the place where
they're needed. They are needed in your
intestines where they're going to be
absorbed as the nutrients that will
support life. And the brain wants to
know this. Highly processed foods are
hijacking, you know, co-opting these
circuits in a way that they would have
never happened in nature. And then we
not only find these things appetitive
and palatable but in addition we are
continuously reinforcing you know the
wanting in a way that oh my god this is
so great what do I feel like eating let
me have more of this. Well, this is why
I think a lot of data are now starting
to support the idea that while indeed
the laws of thermodynamics apply,
calories ingested versus calories burned
is a very real thing, right? The
appetite for certain foods and the the
wanting and the liking are phenomena of
the nervous system, brain and gut as
you've beautifully described and that
that changes over time depending on how
we are receiving these nutrients.
Absolutely. Understanding these circuits
is giving us important insights and how
ultimately hopefully we can improve
human health and make a meaningful
difference.
Now, it's very easy to try to, you know,
connect the dots A to B, B to C, C to D.
And I think there's a lot more
complexity to it.
But I do think that the lessons that are
emerging out of understanding how these
circuits operate can ultimately inform
how we deal with our diets in a way that
we avoid what we're facing now, you
know, as a society. I mean, it's nuts
that the over nutrition happens to be
such a prevalent problem.
>> Yeah. And I also think the training of
people who are thinking about metabolic
science and metabolic disease is largely
divorced from the training of the
neuroscientist and vice versa. No one
field is to blame. But I fully agree
that the the brain is is the key over or
the nervous system to be more accurate
is the one of the key overlooked
features
>> is the arbiter ultimately is the arbiter
of many of these pathways. On behalf of
myself and certainly on behalf of all
the listeners, I want to thank you first
of all for the incredible work that
you've been doing now for decades in
vision, in taste and in this bigger
issue of how we perceive and experience
life. It's uh truly pioneering and
incredible work. And I feel quite lucky
to have been on the sidelines seeing
this over the years and hearing the
talks and reading the countless
beautiful papers, but also for your time
today to come down here and talk to us
about what drives you and the
discoveries you've made. Thank you ever
so much.
>> It was great fun. Thank you for having
me.
>> We'll do it again.
>> I wish all
Ask follow-up questions or revisit key timestamps.
This episode of Huberman Lab Essentials revisits a discussion with Dr. Charles Zuker about taste perception. The conversation delves into the fundamental difference between sensation and perception, explaining that while our environment consists of physical realities, our brain processes this information solely through electrical signals. Perception is defined as the brain's process of transforming these signals into a representation of the world. Dr. Zuker highlights the taste system as a model for understanding this transformation, detailing the five basic tastes (sweet, sour, bitter, salty, umami) and their innate valence values: sweet, umami, and salty are attractive, while bitter and sour are aversive. These basic tastes are crucial for survival, guiding us towards energy-rich foods, proteins, and electrolytes, while warning us against toxins and spoiled food. The discussion distinguishes basic taste from flavor, which is a more complex sensory experience including smell, texture, and temperature. The neural pathway of taste from the tongue to the brain is described, involving taste buds, receptor cells, ganglia, the brainstem, and finally the taste cortex where meaning is assigned. The conversation also explores the concept of plasticity within the taste system, explaining how learned experiences, like developing a preference for coffee despite its bitterness, can alter our perceptions. The role of the gut-brain axis in driving food preferences, particularly for sugar, is a significant focus. It's explained that while the tongue detects sweetness, it's the gut's recognition of actual sugar molecules (not artificial sweeteners) that signals the brain via the vagus nerve, reinforcing the desire for sugar. This highlights how highly processed foods can hijack these natural reward circuits. The episode concludes by emphasizing the brain's role as the conductor of physiological processes and the importance of understanding these brain-gut circuits for improving human health, suggesting that many metabolic and weight-related issues are fundamentally problems of brain circuits rather than just metabolism.
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