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I took a long walk on a dangerous beach.

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I took a long walk on a dangerous beach.

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0:00

I took a long walk on a dangerous beach.

0:02

In the village of Arnside, early in the morning,

0:05

where I parked up and hoped that I wouldn’t find quicksand.

0:09

First job: slather on an amount of sunblock that I would call

0:13

“sensible” and others would call “ridiculous”.

0:15

Despite the reputation of the weather in north-west England,

0:18

I could still get burned.

0:19

This is my first time not just at this bay, but in this part of England.

0:23

I’ve never been up on the Westmorland and Cumberland coast before.

0:29

It’s lovely.

0:30

It’s really nice.

0:32

Folks are starting to arrive for the walk.

0:33

Let’s address the elephant in the room here.

0:35

Yes, I look like a massive dork.

0:37

Cargo shorts and an olive-drab t-shirt were a departure

0:40

from my normal filming uniform for this trip,

0:42

but later you’ll see why jeans and a work shirt would have been a bad idea.

0:46

I did send a picture of the outfit to a group chat

0:49

and was told by friends that I looked like, quote, “a doofus”,

0:53

“that annoying kid at the start of Pokémon who likes shorts way too much”,

0:57

and, most damning of all,

0:58

“no worse than usual”.

1:00

Anyway, let me introduce you to Morecambe Bay:

1:03

tidal mudflats and sand stretching for hundreds of square kilometres.

1:07

On the day I was there, it looked beautiful,

1:09

but to walk across safely,

1:10

you need up-to-date, local knowledge,

1:12

because it can be lethal.

1:14

And 500 people without that up-to-date local knowledge

1:17

were going to be walking across to raise money for charity.

1:20

Their guide, and the most important person of the day

1:22

was Michael Wilson, officially the King’s Guide to the Sands,

1:26

a tradition that stretches back nearly five centuries.

1:30

More on Michael and the sands in a bit, but first,

1:33

let’s get going.

1:34

I checked in first with the folks in charge of the walk,

1:36

watched a few hundred other people turn up and sign in,

1:39

listened to a samba band perform,

1:41

put on neoprene socks just to add

1:42

another fashion crime to the increasingly long list,

1:45

and then watched the most important part: the safety briefing.

1:48

Right, gather up, gather up! The time is upon us.

1:51

I hope you’ve all got your sun cream on.

1:54

Do not stop in that river for anything.

1:59

And I mean anything.

2:01

Don’t get your little cameras out and do a little selfie.

2:04

’Cos you go like that and you go like that,

2:06

then you can’t move. (laughter)

2:08

Now, if anyone gets stuck in the river,

2:12

it’s very unlikely, it’s a very good crossing,

2:14

but if anyone does get stuck, leave ’em.

2:17

(laughter)

2:18

No, honestly, leave ’em. Go away from them.

2:20

Don’t panic, the marshals will come and get you.

2:22

But what you tend to do is they all rush to help ’em and it makes it worse.

2:26

If the dog runs off,

2:28

you have to stay with the walk, you have to leave your dog. Sorry.

2:31

It’s all to do with insurance and everything,

2:32

we have to get you to the other side.

2:34

It’s only ever happened once and the dog came back here and it all ended good.

2:38

That was that. But you know your dog.

2:40

I think that’s about it. Are we all ready to go?

2:42

(crowd) Yes!

2:42

Are we keen? -(crowd) Yes!

2:44

Good. Right then, I’ll test you with the whistle when we set off.

2:47

Thank you very much.

2:48

When the BBC

2:49

filmed a quicksand demonstration for their show “Coast”,

2:51

they picked that same village and that same beach.

2:54

And when National Geographic filmed a quicksand demonstration for their show

2:57

“I Didn’t Know That”, they picked that same village and that same beach.

3:01

Although I strongly suspect that their

3:03

mysterious, lonely, and extremely conveniently-placed patch of quicksand

3:08

was made especially for that show.

3:10

That rescue is somehow over-dramatised and understated at the same time.

3:15

To be honest with you, I’m starting to feel a bit uncomfortable

3:18

about the whole situation,

3:19

so, if you wouldn’t mind getting me out, George, that’d be marvellous!

3:21

(dramatic music)

3:23

He’s right to be “uncomfortable about

3:26

“the whole situation”, though.

3:27

Quicksand is potentially deadly, but it’s not like the movies.

3:30

The problem isn’t that you sink without a trace.

3:32

(whistle blows)

3:33

It’s that you sink down

3:35

to your knees or your chest.

3:37

The suction and pressure are so great that you can’t get yourself out.

3:40

And you can’t be pulled out.

3:42

The force required would tear you in two.

3:45

You get exhausted and hypothermic,

3:47

and before rescue arrives to dig you out

3:48

or use compressed air to liquefy the sand…

3:51

the tide comes in.

3:53

Oh, there’s the Coastguard station.

3:55

And three men in uniform, just in case. Hello!

3:57

-(laughs) -Enjoy your walk!

3:59

Thank you. Hopefully we won’t have to see you out there!

4:01

-Hopefully not, no! -500 people is a lot.

4:03

Like, I’m in the middle of the pack here,

4:05

and we’re just kind of going at a steady pace.

4:08

The instruction was, “Do not get in front of the guide.”

4:11

We move at the pace of the slowest person, ’cos you don’t leave anyone behind.

4:15

That’s a lot of people!

4:17

We walked along the shore for a little while,

4:19

and I realised I’d made

4:20

something of a tactical error.

4:22

Word of advice for if you ever do this walk:

4:24

don’t change your shoes until you get to the tractors,

4:27

’cos there are some rocks.

4:30

(heavy breathing)

4:32

Ow!

4:33

Now here’s a funny thing.

4:35

We’re still on the headland right now, like, this is solid ground.

4:38

But there was a much shorter path available along that beach just there.

4:42

But, um, we’re not going on that beach just there.

4:46

And I can only assume there’s a reason

4:49

that Michael’s taken us the long way round.

4:51

Looking at the aerial photo, the reason’s pretty clear:

4:53

a big stream winding its way to the ocean,

4:56

which I suspect would be the perfect conditions for quicksand.

4:59

Or it might just be that it’s a private beach, but I’m gonna guess quicksand.

5:02

Anyway, once past there,

5:03

it was out onto the sand and the mud flats,

5:05

and our last staging point

5:07

was just before things started to get...squishy.

5:11

Nice to see you! Why have you stopped making videos?

5:14

Good news, I’ve started again.

5:16

-Well then, looking forward to them. -(laughter)

5:17

Standing on the last bit of solid sand,

5:20

with the safety tractors ready to start up,

5:22

I got talking to Stuart, Vicki and Lottie.

5:25

Okay, I have to ask about Lottie

5:27

because I will admit to being slightly worried about Lottie

5:30

because Lottie is very small. Hi! (Lottie barks)

5:33

Lottie is very, very small.

5:35

The water is meant to be getting up to, like, knee height and Lottie…

5:38

There’s a high chance she’s gonna get carried.

5:39

-Yes. -Okay.

5:40

She’s a pampered pooch.

5:42

(laughter)

5:43

You’re good, aren’t you? You like the sand, don’t you?

5:45

(barking)

5:46

Stuart and Vicki, along with everyone else on the walk,

5:48

including me, are raising money for St John’s Hospice,

5:50

which supports terminally ill people across a big swathe of north-west England.

5:54

I’d had a quick chat, back at the start, with Lisa,

5:56

who was one of the volunteers checking people in.

5:58

She said it costs £15,000 a day to run the hospice,

6:01

and most of that comes from donations.

6:03

Throughout the summer season, the Guide Over The Sands

6:07

releases charity places,

6:09

and we buy 500 places which we’ve sold out.

6:12

It is reliant on amazing people who are going to come and do

6:15

this amazing nine mile walk today.

6:17

So that’s the economics of it:

6:19

the charity pays enough to cover the costs of things like insurance,

6:22

the tractors and the marshals that you’ll see in a minute,

6:24

and everything above that goes to the charities:

6:26

hundreds of thousands of pounds a year.

6:28

Given that the same charities seem to come back year after year after year,

6:32

it clearly works out for them.

6:33

I think today they’ll be quite fortunate because we’ve not had much rain,

6:38

but there is a channel that they do need to cross

6:40

and when it has been raining a lot,

6:42

I mean, it can really get up to chest height

6:44

and it’s very, very strong.

6:47

Yes. So, it’s worth saying that I got very lucky with this walk.

6:52

The dates lined up well, this was the one day that I could do on my road trip,

6:55

and it was one of the final walks of the year.

6:58

And so, just before we headed out onto the bay proper,

7:01

I got talking to Michael.

7:02

It’s not a bad gig, this, is it?

7:04

-No, on a day like this, it is. -Oh.

7:07

Oh, of course, the charity walk’s booked in, rain or shine.

7:10

Rain or shine, usually.

7:12

Anything other than a thunderstorm, I’m guessing?

7:14

-Yeah, thunderstorms aren’t good. -Yeah.

7:16

-With the lightning. Lightning’s spicy, we don’t want that.

7:18

But we did have one...

7:20

There was a lot of electrical charge in the atmosphere.

7:23

-Ooh. -When all the walkers walked through

7:24

the river, all the ladies’ hair stood up in the air.

7:27

Ooh, that would worry me a lot.

7:29

-Yeah, a bit hairy was that one. -(laughter)

7:31

Off camera later,

7:32

I got talking to one of the folks who’d been on the same walk a few weeks ago

7:35

when the weather was not so pleasant.

7:38

Waist-deep cold water at the deepest parts,

7:41

thirty or forty mile-an-hour wind,

7:43

strong rain, absolutely miserable.

7:45

He said one of the marshals had to help someone who didn’t so much give up

7:49

as just physically could not wade any further through the water.

7:53

She fell, the marshal tried to help her up but she’s pulling him back down in panic.

7:57

Now, the guy I talked to said that it’s safe,

8:00

the marshals are trained first aiders, they can deal with that,

8:02

but if you do sign up for this,

8:04

it may be not be the easy version that I got.

8:07

I’m putting this video out and hopefully people and charities are going to be like,

8:10

“Oh, that’s nice, we can do that.” -Yep.

8:12

I’m making it look really nice and really easy.

8:14

Yeah, yeah, but sometimes it can be really quite horrendous.

8:17

And on that note, Michael blew his whistle...

8:20

(whistle blowing)

8:21

The tractors started up, and off we went.

8:23

I don’t know if you can hear the difference,

8:24

but there’s a lot of splashing all of a sudden.

8:28

So we’re going that way, right, eventually?

8:31

Eventually, yeah, we’re making our way to Grange-over-Sands.

8:33

Right, but we’re heading out this way.

8:35

-Yeah, out towards Heysham Power Station. -What do you know that I don’t?

8:38

It’s all to do with the crossing in the river,

8:40

what we’re going to get to shortly.

8:42

So, we’ve got to find the safest route in the river.

8:44

Obviously we don’t want nearly 500 people going in the sinky sand,

8:48

so, it all depends where the hardest part in the river is and the shallowest part

8:52

to get everyone across safely.

8:54

So that’s why we’re heading out this way out into the middle of the bay.

8:57

I would just look at that and think, that’s walkable, I can do that.

9:00

Yeah, but people do that and then they get stuck up there,

9:03

’cos it’s really soft up there. -Right.

9:05

So, that’s why you have to walk out into the bay

9:07

to get yourself back into the bay.

9:09

And just be clear, no one should do that without a guide, right?

9:12

This is what you’re here for. -I wouldn’t advise it.

9:15

I wouldn’t advise it.

9:16

You’re going to end up stuck and then, if you don’t get any assistance,

9:19

the tide will come and get you and you’ll drown.

9:21

-Right. And the bay is dangerous. -Yes, very dangerous.

9:24

Everyone knows about the cockle pickers, sadly.

9:27

Yeah, 20 years ago that, now, I think?

9:29

-25 years ago I think it is now, yeah. -Blimey, okay.

9:31

Morecambe Bay and frankly all of Westmorland

9:33

is a part of the country that I think often seems to get ignored

9:36

by the rest of England.

9:38

It says a lot that almost all of the stock footage I can find

9:40

of the actual fishing industry on Morecambe Bay comes from 2004 when

9:44

every national news outlet in the country descended there.

9:48

Twenty-three people had been drowned by the incoming tide.

9:51

They’d been trafficked in from China by organised crime groups

9:54

and sent out onto the bay at night to illegally harvest cockles,

9:57

small edible clams that are a major crop for the fishing industry round there.

10:01

One of the gangmasters of the group was negligent with the tide times,

10:04

the workers were cut off,

10:06

and fast waters and hypothermia did the rest.

10:09

The bay is dangerous, and crossing it alone is a bad decision.

10:13

And that’s been known for a very, very long time.

10:17

That’s why the guides were originally set up.

10:19

-Yeah. -We were set up by Henry VIII

10:21

back in 1548.

10:23

(exhales)

10:24

So, it’s very ancient.

10:26

Before that, it’s all to do with the Port of Lancaster.

10:28

The monks were coming up here,

10:30

and it would save them three days’ travel by land.

10:33

You forget how far this goes in.

10:35

Yeah, and obviously there was nothing,

10:37

there were only horse and carriages back then.

10:38

-Yeah. -Plus they were getting mugged up there.

10:41

Right.

10:42

So they found it better to come across the sand.

10:45

But then they end up…

10:46

-They were having fatalities. -Yeah.

10:48

So, the first monks were called carters

10:53

and a carter is a pathfinder. -As in cartographer?

10:57

-Yeah. -Right.

10:58

I was wrong there.

11:00

I did some research and they were probably called carters

11:02

because they often drove a cart,

11:04

which is from the Old English cræt.

11:06

There’s no relation to cartography,

11:08

which comes from the French carte and the Latin carta.

11:10

Anyway, they were called carters.

11:12

They guided the first parties across,

11:14

and then eventually Henry VIII

11:17

royally appointed four...

11:18

There was originally four guides.

11:20

What Michael is skipping over there

11:22

is Henry VIII setting up the Church of England

11:25

because he wants to annul his marriage,

11:26

executing hundreds of people for treason,

11:28

dissolving all the monasteries and seizing their assets,

11:30

and then as a side effect having to provide some of the services

11:34

that the church previously offered,

11:35

including getting people safely over Morecambe Bay.

11:38

Although Henry VIII died the year before the first guide was actually appointed,

11:42

by the time someone was in place, Henry’s son, Edward VI was King,

11:46

and also was a child, about ten years old!

11:50

The appointment would have actually been made by the King’s local officials.

11:53

More than 450 years later,

11:56

Michael is the 26th King’s Guide to the Sands,

11:59

and of course he’s also been the Queen’s Guide to the Sands,

12:01

because he took over from his predecessor in 2019.

12:04

So you seem to get the job for a long time.

12:06

-Yeah, you do. -Yeah, the last…

12:08

It’s what, 450 years, 26 guides?

12:10

-Yeah. -Yeah.

12:11

The last guide, Cedric, he held the role for 56 years.

12:16

I don’t think I’ll quite do that many years, but…

12:18

How’d you get the job, then? Did he appoint…

12:20

Do you get appointed by the King,

12:21

or does he choose you as his successor when he retires?

12:24

Cedric basically chose me as his successor,

12:28

but there’s a trust that manages it for the king.

12:31

And I had to go and have a formal interview with them,

12:33

and just make sure. -Yep.

12:34

But no, it was all basically, Cedric said, “There’s only one man for the job.”

12:39

-Ah. -And it’s me.

12:41

Cedric wrote a book about his 50 years on the sands,

12:44

and he tells tales of the times before the internet came along

12:47

when requests to cross arrived by post,

12:49

and when health and safety and public liability insurance

12:52

weren’t part of the job.

12:53

He also tells stories of the sands swallowing a tractor

12:57

and the prodding and testing process that goes on before each walk.

13:00

Also, he once led a gaggle of 27 geese and their keeper across the bay.

13:05

Well, I was going to ask you more about that,

13:06

but is this the river or is this just a wet bit?

13:08

-No, this is just a wet bit. -This is just a wet bit, okay!

13:10

You’ll see the river. Don’t worry.

13:11

Okay, this is just your everyday wet bit we’re splashing through here.

13:14

Yeah.

13:15

I mean, you’re just going through this in your trainers.

13:17

I’ve got the fancy neoprene shoes.

13:19

Yeah, well, I normally walk bare feet.

13:22

How did you end up the one being picked then?

13:24

I assume you used to be out in the bay a lot?

13:27

-Yeah, I’m a fisherman. -Right.

13:28

I’m a fisherman of the bay

13:29

and it’s always gone to a fisherman of the bay, has the job.

13:33

So yeah, I’m one of the last full-time fishermen, shall we say.

13:38

So, my job is fishing.

13:40

Michael is an inshore fisherman,

13:42

which I can confirm because if you search for cockle fishing on Getty Images,

13:45

you find photos of Michael and his tractor from 2018.

13:48

And it’s not fishing with lines.

13:50

They use a board, shaking it back and forth to liquify the sand,

13:53

and then rake through to pull out the cockles.

13:56

The inshore fishermen might also leave nets in the water between tides,

13:59

which then catch fish as the tide enters and leaves the bay.

14:02

So it’s a job that requires tractors, not boats.

14:06

Anyway, we continue across the water, following Michael’s knowledge,

14:09

and the laurel branches that have been laid out in advance as a backup,

14:13

and also the GPS on the tractors as a second backup.

14:16

I did ask about the tractors.

14:18

Are they just in case of emergency if someone needs to…

14:20

Yeah, they’re just basically safety vehicles.

14:23

-Right. -Hopefully it won’t happen

14:24

because it’s just a leisurely walk.

14:26

But if anyone falls and twists their ankle or…

14:29

We had a lady yesterday, she just twisted her knee a bit and needed a bit of a rest.

14:32

Ooh! Yep. And you can’t stop, you said?

14:34

You’re alright here.

14:36

The problem is, we’re nearly 500 people.

14:39

Us at the front walk over it like nothing.

14:40

But the ones at the back, if it starts going squishy…

14:43

Oh yeah, that line’s spreading out.

14:45

It’s starting to go a bit like that at the back.

14:47

-Oh, because we’re destabilising the sand. -Yeah.

14:50

-And we’re all in one line. -And we’re all in one line.

14:53

I hadn’t thought of that.

14:54

Yeah. That’s why there’s marshals spread out amongst the crowd,

14:57

so if they notice it gets too bad,

14:59

they spread the crowd out and move out of it.

15:02

Remember when I said they use a board to liquify the sand?

15:05

That’s what a thousand trudging feet are doing, so at the front, we’re fine,

15:09

but if you’re at the back, you really don’t want to stop.

15:13

Obvious question: do you get to meet the king for this?

15:15

Has he ever come down here to do the walk?

15:18

-Not yet. -Not yet, okay.

15:19

We were going to go to Clarence House to meet him.

15:21

-Oh. -But me being me,

15:23

I didn’t answer the email. -(laughter)

15:25

-I forgot. -(laughter)

15:28

So we missed it.

15:30

I mean, the job’s changed a bit over the years then.

15:31

I imagine like… -Oh, massively.

15:33

Henry VIII’s day, it would have been wait for the pilgrims or the monks to turn up…

15:37

Yeah, and then cross ’em. That’s what it was all about.

15:40

-On horseback? -Or walking.

15:43

Some walked. -Right.

15:44

But then it changed massively when the railway came.

15:49

Oh, of course.

15:50

Because then that was it. People just went round the thing.

15:53

And then it’s become more of a leisure thing now.

15:56

Right. I assume you have to cover expenses for like tractors and things like that.

15:59

No one’s out of pocket. But it’s not like this is a money-making thing for you.

16:03

No, the trust covers the diesel for the tractors.

16:05

And then we also sell certificates to maintain the tractors a bit.

16:09

Yeah.

16:10

And that’s about it, yeah.

16:12

So no, it all goes, basically all goes to charity.

16:14

Yeah. Do you get paid the same as the old guides did?

16:17

-I got an increase. -You got an increase!

16:19

I got an increase. It went from £15 to £20.

16:22

-Hey! -So, yeah.

16:24

-Inflation comes for us all eventually. -Yeah.

16:27

-And that’s per year? -Per year, yeah. I get it at Christmas.

16:31

So, I tend to go out and buy a load of lottery tickets.

16:33

(laughter)

16:34

I did some research into what £15 a year would have meant back in 1548,

16:38

and the best modern comparison I can come up with is,

16:40

“comfortable middle-class salary”.

16:42

And the guide got a place to live.

16:44

You get the annual stipend,

16:46

don’t spend it all at once. -Yeah.

16:48

And a place to live, I think, is that right?

16:49

A place to live. That’s just over there.

16:51

-Oh, lovely. -Guide’s Farm.

16:53

That’s them four fields and the farm there,

16:54

that’s where we’re gonna live.

16:56

But I’ve had a job nine years and we still haven’t got there yet.

16:58

They’re renovating the house. -(laughter)

17:00

So, shortly, shortly, it’s going to be finished hopefully by end of September.

17:04

And I bet they’re not covering that renovation either. (laughs)

17:06

-This looks like a river. -This is the river.

17:08

This is the river.

17:10

That looks like a very deep river,

17:13

but you know the path to cross, I guess.

17:15

This is it, yeah.

17:17

Up there’s too deep and down there’s too deep.

17:20

So, we’re like on a sandbar in the middle.

17:23

How deep is it going to be this time?

17:26

About knee deep? -Yeah.

17:27

If you wait a few hours it’ll be a lot deeper.

17:28

(laughter)

17:29

Oh, of course, the walk time has to change each day, doesn’t it?

17:32

Yeah, that’s where it’s all different, yeah.

17:33

Yesterday we set off at half past ten.

17:35

Today we’re setting off at half past eleven.

17:37

We are actually walking out into the bay and the tide’s coming in.

17:40

Really?

17:41

Yeah, ’cos we work off the Liverpool tide table.

17:43

It’s already turned at Liverpool, it’s coming.

17:45

-Oh, okay. -So, yeah.

17:47

-But we’ve got enough spare time? -Oh, we’ve got plenty of time.

17:49

I’ve just realised that I am sinking slightly.

17:52

Yeah, a little bit. A little bit.

17:54

So, waiting for the folks at the back to catch up with us.

17:59

And I am actually sinking in.

18:03

That’s a foot.

18:04

I’m gonna keep moving here.

18:07

Oh, my God, thank you for the reminder.

18:09

I have just remembered that my phone and car keys are in the cargo shorts.

18:14

-Yeah, don’t forget the car keys. -Yep. They need to come out.

18:17

You’ll go to test the alarm and it won’t go off.

18:18

-Yeah. -It’ll be shorted out, your battery.

18:21

-So, marshals are heading out there. -Yep.

18:23

What’s the procedure? Are they checking the depth?

18:25

Are they just making sure there’s no surprises out there?

18:28

No surprises out there.

18:29

They’re just basically just gonna stand in the river

18:31

and watch the people walk through, and make sure no one gets stuck

18:34

or if anyone needs assistance, -Oh, right.

18:36

they’ll just go in and just observe what’s happening to people.

18:39

So, presumably they do have to keep shifting their feet around,

18:42

’cos otherwise… -Yeah, just a little bit, yeah.

18:43

It’s not so bad today because there’s not a lot of run in the river.

18:46

It takes much less water, travelling much slower than you might think,

18:50

to knock someone over.

18:51

Water is heavy, and just 15 centimetres of depth,

18:54

running fast enough, can knock over an adult.

18:57

You’ll feel that, even now there’s very little run in the river,

18:59

you’ll feel it when you walk into the river.

19:01

-Yeah. -You’ll feel how strong it is.

19:03

This would be terrifying out on your own.

19:06

In the middle of the night in November, it’s quite interesting.

19:09

-Oh, yeah. -You do a lot of talking to them tractors.

19:11

Come on old girl, don’t break down tonight!

19:14

And so, into the river!

19:16

-Right, are we ready to go? -Yeah.

19:17

Right, come on then.

19:19

(whistle blowing)

19:21

-Enjoy it, Tom. -Thank you.

19:23

Yeah, just in that bit, that’s it. Yeah.

19:24

Here we go.

19:26

(splashing)

19:27

The noise is amazing.

19:29

I’m just gonna let you listen to this for a second.

19:31

(splashing)

19:37

500 people wading through knee-deep water, and I’m not gonna stop.

19:41

I’m not gonna risk this.

19:43

Like, there is, of course, a bit of my brain going, “Yeah, but what if?”

19:46

Like, how much would you sink?

19:48

Absolutely not gonna risk it.

19:50

I briefly felt that back out at the tractors,

19:54

and pulling my foot out of the mire really did take effort.

20:00

The dog...the dogs are swimming!

20:03

I mean, yeah.

20:05

Very glad that I took the electronics out of my cargo short pockets.

20:11

It’s quite wet.

20:14

We’re beyond knee deep now.

20:16

(splashing)

20:18

This is hard work.

20:19

You start off going at full speed, but that is hard work.

20:23

(panting)

20:24

Getting to the end of it now.

20:25

Starting to lift up.

20:29

There we go.

20:31

The neoprene shoes were definitely a mistake

20:34

because they’re now full of water and wobbling like clown shoes.

20:38

Just to give you some context on location,

20:40

we’ve walked along the main course of the bay.

20:43

Our destination is still all the way over there.

20:47

But this is the safe path. ’Cos, again, that looked easy.

20:51

I would have thought that, “Ah, that’s a little bit of water.

20:54

“Won’t even come up to my ankles.” No.

20:56

Michael was right, you can feel the current on that.

20:59

Also, second river.

21:01

-This one’s the shallower one? -This is the shallower one.

21:03

-Shallow one, alright. -This is...

21:04

This is where the River Kent was a month ago.

21:07

-Oh! -That’s the River Kent,

21:08

and this is where it was a month ago.

21:10

Oh. It changes that quickly?

21:12

-It changes that quickly, yeah. -Wow!

21:15

Every tide, every storm will shift the sands of the bay,

21:18

and Michael has the knowledge and practical experience

21:20

day-to-day and week-to-week

21:21

to know how they’ve shifted.

21:23

If you watch the tide come in, you can see what it’s gonna do.

21:25

Right.

21:26

You sit up at Guide’s Farm in the fields and watch it.

21:30

It’ll come round the corner and as the tide races in,

21:33

it forms a big corner, and eventually as it races in, it cuts through.

21:38

So, it beats itself.

21:40

As soon as that bit beats itself, it goes down there.

21:42

I thought…I mean, of course, I knew that happened with big rivers occasionally,

21:45

you end up with oxbow lakes.

21:47

Everyone, in geography, gets taught about oxbow lakes.

21:49

-Yeah. -But that’s meant to be on, like,

21:50

centuries and this happens in, what, a week?

21:53

A week, yeah. It can just move, yeah.

21:55

Or it could stay in the same place for three months.

21:57

-Yeah. -And it just moves.

21:59

-But it’s your job to know that... -Yeah.

22:01

...not just for your work, but for this as well.

22:03

Yeah, to be watching the river all the time.

22:05

Wow.

22:07

(splashing)

22:10

Ah. Looks like we do have someone injured over there, but that’s fine.

22:15

That’s what the tractor’s for.

22:18

Good news.

22:19

The dogs are walking again.

22:21

Hello. Oh, hi! (laughter)

22:25

Sorry about that.

22:26

I think I’m actually qualified to put, “likes long walks on the beach”

22:29

in a dating profile now.

22:31

And...out one more time.

22:35

Past the river, a good few kilometres into the walk,

22:38

we stopped for a brief rest break on a bit of solid sand.

22:40

I got some aerial shots, and then we hooked to the right

22:43

and headed on the safer route towards our destination.

22:46

I did have one more question for Michael, though:

22:48

does he still have the legal duty to guide folks across,

22:51

or is it just ceremonial these days?

22:54

Like, if some travellers turned up and said,

22:56

“We need to get across Morecambe Bay”,

22:58

what would he do?

22:59

It’s still in my job title that if anyone comes and knocks on the farmhouse door

23:03

and asks for passage across the sands,

23:06

I have to say yes or no for whatever reason.

23:08

Yeah. But you can say no.

23:11

-I can say no. -Yeah.

23:13

It was never a requirement that the passage must be immediate.

23:15

-No. -You can just give ’em a leaflet

23:17

and say come back in April. -Yeah.

23:20

Or go on the train. -Yeah. (laughs)

23:22

-Or go round by road now. -It’ll be quicker.

23:24

Yeah.

23:26

We do have people like mountaineers and things.

23:30

-Yeah. -You know, that walk the breadth

23:32

of the country or whatever, and they want to go across this ancient passage.

23:35

When I first reached out, I thought that was what I was planning to do.

23:38

It’s like, oh yeah, get a walk across the sands with the guide...

23:42

I’m so glad that it turned out it was on one of these days.

23:45

-Yeah. -This has been lovely.

23:47

Yeah.

23:48

It’s so much better with a crowd doing the charity thing than it would have been.

23:51

The sand got a bit soft at times,

23:53

and a bit muddy and sticky at times, but Michael guided us on the safe path.

23:57

So how many more of these are you doing this year?

23:59

-Two. -Two more.

24:00

-Two more in two weeks’ time. -Right.

24:02

-End of August. -And you start again next year in…?

24:05

Well, when the weather gets good? -End of April, beginning of May.

24:08

-Yeah. -Around that time.

24:09

It’s usually the beginning of May.

24:11

So we walk May, June, July and August.

24:14

Then it gets just too unpredictable, and before April, the river’s too cold.

24:18

And then, after about nine miles,

24:20

we were done. The constant splashing noise faded away,

24:23

and we came back to dry land.

24:25

What a lovely thing to be part of.

24:27

450 years of tradition,

24:30

and it’s still going.

24:31

It’s raising that much money for charity, and it’s given...

24:34

I mean, I don’t know if they’re showing up as more than tiny pixels on this camera,

24:37

but it’s given 450, 500 people a really lovely day out.

24:41

There are a lot worse ways to spend a Sunday.

24:43

(applause)

24:44

Michael, thank you. It’s been an absolute pleasure.

24:47

-Yeah. -Thank you so much for all your time.

24:48

You’ve just gotta make sure everyone’s safely off the sand first?

24:50

Just watch ’em all come in.

24:52

Our marshals are mixed in with ’em, so, yeah.

24:54

As I am the Guide to the Sands, not to the marsh.

24:56

(laughter) From here we’re on our own.

24:58

So, you’re on your own now.

24:59

And if you’re wondering how I got back…

25:02

I took the train.

25:03

If you want to see the next episode right now, you can,

25:05

on Nebula. Every episode of my England series

25:08

is up there one week early.

25:09

And you know what else is up there a week early?

25:13

Us! Our show! Jet Lag: The Game.

25:15

This is the team from Jet Lag: The Game.

25:16

If you want to see their show a week early,

25:18

including, eventually, the season that I am now filming with them

25:21

when it comes out,

25:22

you can join Nebula. What else is on there?

25:24

There’s a wonderful docuseries that I directed called Scav

25:27

about the world’s largest annual scavenger hunt.

25:28

And that's an Original.

25:29

That’s an Original, it's only on Nebula.

25:31

Day Pass! Day Pass, Jason from Not Just Bikes

25:34

goes and explores the public transit systems of cities all around the world.

25:37

Only on Nebula!

25:38

And Abolish Everything, a comedy debate show that

25:40

we film in New York City,

25:42

and Adam and I are on it sometimes, and it’s a lot of fun.

25:44

And as this video goes out, annual Nebula subscriptions

25:47

are 50% off, that is $30 for the year

25:50

or just $2.50/month.

25:52

Wish us luck, we’re going to the other end of Japan!

25:53

Let's go!

25:54

Well, wish... wish us luck.

25:56

Wrong way! It's this way. Wrong way!

25:59

Game’s not starting for, like, 15 minutes yet. We’re good!

26:02

Next time, or right now on Nebula:

26:05

levers, bells, lights,

26:07

and something I cannot believe I was allowed to do.

Interactive Summary

The video follows the narrator's experience joining a guided charity walk across the dangerous tidal flats of Morecambe Bay in northwest England. Led by Michael Wilson, the 26th 'King’s Guide to the Sands,' the walk is a tradition dating back nearly 500 years. The narrator explores the history of the position, the unique dangers of the bay, the importance of local knowledge to navigate shifting quicksand and channels, and the logistics of organizing a safe crossing for hundreds of people.

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