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The hard truth about life in Belgrade Serbia after 15 years

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The hard truth about life in Belgrade Serbia after 15 years

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1032 segments

0:00

Only in Serbia somebody could give you a

0:01

bolarakia because you hit his car.

0:03

>> This is Ralph. 15 years ago [music] he

0:05

moved from the Netherlands to Serbia

0:07

where he married a Serbian wife and

0:09

opened a bike rental business in

0:11

Belgrid. Today besides renting bikes he

0:14

also [music] runs yoga tours tours

0:16

around Belgrid in an old zasta by

0:18

exploring Yugoslav monuments and

0:20

architecture. He shared how Kafana

0:22

explains life in Serbia, the main

0:24

lessons he learned from Serbs about work

0:27

culture, and how you can find unexpected

0:30

[music] warmth here even in the most

0:32

unlikely situations. IMO, we have three

0:35

Zastava cars which we use to show the

0:39

city to to our guests to old. One is

0:42

like almost 50 years old and there's a

0:44

little bit of slope in front of the shop

0:46

here and we put stones uh behind the

0:50

wheels to to stop them from rolling

0:52

back. So, one of my guides one day, a

0:55

few few weeks ago took the stones away

0:57

and the car decided to already start

0:59

rolling backwards. Uh the handbrake

1:01

didn't work. It was in first gear, but

1:03

it just didn't want to stay and we

1:06

couldn't do anything. It was just

1:07

rolling in front of our eyes and it's a

1:08

very busy street here and we just saw it

1:11

going on the street. it would be a huge

1:12

traffic accident. Luckily, some guy just

1:15

turned here on this parking and it

1:17

ramped the car in the front and it also

1:20

scratched uh another car. Anyway, long

1:23

story short, the guy uh who we hit, we

1:26

gave some money and it wasn't that big

1:27

damage luckily. And then the other car

1:30

that was parked here and it's was

1:31

scratched pretty badly. Uh the guy

1:34

wasn't there, the owner. So, after an

1:36

hour or two, uh I was working in my shop

1:39

and I saw him getting into his car. He

1:41

didn't even notice it was scratched. And

1:43

I came came to him. I said, "Sir, sir,

1:45

uh, sorry, you know, I scratched your

1:47

car and in my bed Serbian." And the guy

1:50

said, "Okay, yeah, what can I do? You

1:52

know, the the guy who hit my car is gone

1:54

now." He said, "No, no, no." We had to

1:56

explain it again. We hit your car. You

1:58

know, that's our car there. It hit He

2:00

still didn't get it. He said, "You

2:02

waited for me. You're coming to tell me

2:04

that your you hit my car. You're telling

2:07

me?" But instead of getting angry and

2:08

and everything, he opened the hood of

2:11

his car, the back of his car, got out a

2:13

bottle of rakia and gave us a bottle of

2:14

rakia because we were so honest to tell

2:17

him that we damaged his car. Only in

2:20

Serbia somebody could give you a bottle

2:21

of rakia because you hit his car. This

2:23

Dutch couple came to Ralph's place to

2:25

take a tour around Belgrit in one of the

2:27

zast ofas. Of course, I asked them about

2:29

the biggest shock in Serbia and the

2:31

answer really shocked me too. Did you

2:33

have any cultural shocks here?

2:35

>> There's one. People are waiting for the

2:37

red light.

2:38

>> Oh yeah.

2:38

>> Before uh crossing the streets.

2:40

>> Before crossing the streets. Yeah. In

2:42

the Netherlands a red light is more like

2:44

an advice. Like we advise you to stop

2:46

but

2:47

>> basically everybody just walks on. And

2:49

here people wait

2:51

>> up until the green light and then they

2:52

walk. That's Yeah, that's a cultural

2:54

show.

2:54

>> Being akisette.

2:56

Do you think it's kind of a status here?

2:58

>> Well, it's like the golden ticket. I

3:00

even tell my Serbian friends, you know,

3:01

sometimes they should just act like

3:03

they're foreigner and saying they're

3:04

serette because, you know, it will in a

3:06

kafana it will give you free get you

3:08

free rakia. You know, if they know

3:09

you're gizette, the waiter will go.

3:16

I don't know why, but [laughter]

3:17

uh I was stopped a few times uh with the

3:21

because I broke traffic laws, you know,

3:23

speeding, but I never got a fine, you

3:25

know, as soon as soon as I pulled out

3:27

the the golden surfette card, they would

3:29

say, "Oh, wait, your surf kiset. Ah,

3:32

then it's okay. Then you can go." you

3:34

know, they they think either we're one

3:36

I'm one of them, you know, or they feel

3:39

so sorry that I married a Serbian wife

3:41

and [laughter]

3:43

they feel like, "Oh, I'm so sorry that

3:44

here I have Iraq." Yeah. Don't pay the

3:46

fine.

3:47

>> Was it difficult to overcome cultural

3:49

differences between you and your wife in

3:51

everyday life?

3:52

>> Well, I don't know if we overcame all of

3:55

them. [laughter]

3:56

I think there's some cultural

3:57

differences you just have to accept and

3:59

live with. For one thing, there there is

4:01

enuties.

4:03

I think Balkcon thing uh where people

4:06

are so stubborn is not logical anymore.

4:09

It hurts themselves. And I don't know if

4:12

it's my wife uh because she is a woman,

4:15

if it's uh because she is Serbian or

4:18

because it's her character or it's me,

4:20

you know, because I'm not a nice guy or

4:21

something. But sometimes this enut comes

4:24

up or this this fights come up and I say

4:26

like this is not logical. Why are you

4:28

doing this? Stop it. And she will just

4:31

continue with it. You know, in Holland,

4:33

we don't care so much how we look. You

4:36

know, it's it's okay just to wear your

4:37

old clothes. And for my wife, it's very

4:41

different. You know, she she wants me to

4:43

to look okay when I go on the street.

4:45

Yesterday, we were in the in the

4:48

elevator going from the ground floor to

4:49

our apartment. So, we saw nobody, but

4:52

still, you know, I had to tuck in my

4:54

shirt in my she just automatically she

4:57

says, "Hey, tuck in your shirt." Like,

4:58

[snorts] "Hey, we're in elevator.

4:59

There's nobody else here. You know,

5:00

we're at home." I but basically as with

5:03

working culture I learned a lot from it.

5:05

Uh I learn a lot from family culture and

5:08

everything. For example, you have how

5:09

how important family is. You know,

5:11

family comes on the number one place

5:13

above everything. Uh above work uh above

5:16

friends. Sometimes it's it's irritating.

5:18

You know, you don't want to spend so

5:19

much time on family or go to your

5:21

funeral of a auntie of a cousin which

5:25

you never seen, but you have to go

5:27

through all this trouble. Um but you do

5:30

it because it is family and it's very

5:32

big extended family and that's how it's

5:34

a it's a whole system kept in place. I

5:36

mean weddings of three 400 people you

5:38

can you can't imagine in Holland you

5:40

know in Holland you might invite 80

5:42

people but 20 for the wedding itself and

5:46

then uh there's a reception with 30

5:49

other friends kind of and then you

5:51

invite another 15 for the dinner because

5:53

you're not going to pay dinner for our

5:54

80 people, you know. No, it's all going

5:56

to be too expensive. And you know, very

5:59

regulated, on the money, uh, you know,

6:01

not thinking, hey, this is the greatest

6:03

day of my life. I want all my friends

6:04

and family to spend three days of

6:06

partying with me like it happens here

6:08

sometimes.

6:09

>> You have witnessed Serbian wedding.

6:12

>> Yes. Yes. Several. Yeah. Yeah.

6:13

>> I was I was shocked when I discovered

6:15

that they have this custom of shooting

6:18

the tree.

6:19

>> I'm still waiting for my moment that

6:21

that somebody will give me that gun and

6:23

shoot the apple because I got married.

6:25

But uh we didn't do it in a traditional

6:26

way. We did it quite quickly. So I hope

6:29

to do it once big and and and shoot a

6:30

gun because you know for a Dutch guy

6:33

it's great to shoot a gun you know once

6:35

in your life like shoot an apple. But um

6:38

yeah know all the customs are are crazy.

6:40

I've been to really traditional ones you

6:42

know.

6:42

>> What shocked you the most? I think first

6:44

of all the amount of people invited you

6:47

know I've been been on weddings with 400

6:49

people like crazy you know and they're

6:52

all eating and drinking and they they

6:53

start in the morning at 10:00 and I I

6:56

remember one wedding it was really big

6:57

it was in Anjel we were there at 10:00

6:59

in the morning already in a big hall and

7:01

you know people were already eating and

7:02

and drinking raia full speed you know

7:05

and then the kum he came in with a you

7:08

know a poor pick a full pig you know

7:10

dead but like [laughter] a bomb put it

7:13

in front of the the couple like, "Yeah,

7:15

here's my gift, you know." And then

7:18

everybody was drunk and we drove in this

7:20

caravan with, you know, all the cars uh

7:22

with the gypsy band with trumpets in the

7:25

car as well to get the bride and there

7:28

they started shooting. Yeah. But I know

7:30

there's a tradition, I don't know if you

7:31

heard about it, but the next day um

7:34

there somebody should climb on the roof

7:36

of the house of the newly wet couple. I

7:38

think it's the kum and start demolishing

7:41

the roof, throwing the towels on the

7:42

ground and the couple comes out and

7:44

starts offering him money to stop. I

7:46

haven't seen it myself because I haven't

7:48

been there, you know, the morning after

7:49

the wedding night, but [laughter] I hope

7:52

it won't happen to me. But so this is

7:54

also a tradition.

7:56

>> Okay. Kafana. Uh what what my favorite

7:59

topic.

7:59

>> Yeah. What what makes uh it so

8:02

attractive for you? Do you have uh in

8:04

Holland uh something that resembles

8:06

kafana? No, you you have something like

8:09

a bar, traditional bar. We call it brown

8:12

bar because everything is dark brown

8:15

wood and they start drinking there at

8:17

10:00 in the morning, you know, and just

8:19

talking about life and everything. But

8:20

there's no food. So, it's it's

8:22

absolutely nothing to do with the kafana

8:23

actually. I mean, the only thing is that

8:24

it's old and traditional and people

8:26

drink. But Kafana is a completely

8:28

different institution altogether. You

8:31

know, I I can't see that working in in

8:34

Holland or other any other country for

8:36

that matter. My own explanation is the

8:38

mix between the Austrian influences here

8:40

from the past and the Ottoman

8:42

influences. Kafana reminds me on the one

8:44

hand of this coffee houses in Vienna,

8:47

these grand coffee houses with big art

8:49

on the wall and it's quite luxurious and

8:52

fancy ladies drink their coffee there.

8:54

And then in in Turkey in Istanbul, you

8:57

will have the small coffee houses where

8:58

only men sit and they smoke all day and

9:00

drink their tea. I think these

9:03

influences come together in the kafana.

9:05

They're not these small coffee houses

9:07

like in Turkey, but they are more like

9:09

in shape the big gr cafes in from

9:13

Vienna, but you know the men are sitting

9:16

in it and smoking and talking about

9:18

politics like they do in Turkey. So for

9:20

me that's the the cultural explanation

9:22

of a kafana. Yeah, for me it's it's the

9:25

essence of of of the Balkans and of

9:27

Serbia and of Belgrade. Everything comes

9:29

together there. The joy, the sadness.

9:32

After a funeral, you go to the nearest

9:34

kafana. There's always kafana next to a

9:36

graveyard. With a wedding, you go to the

9:38

kafana. Uh when somebody is born, you go

9:41

to the kafana. So, it's joy, it's it's

9:44

sadness, all these emotions come there.

9:46

Uh it's hospitality because you always

9:49

been treat are treated really well by

9:50

the waiters. It's the food which is, you

9:53

know, essential for Serbia and for the

9:55

Balkans is great food. It's the drink of

9:57

course the raka and the beer that's

9:59

flowing unlimitedless you know unlimited

10:02

and then there's the singing which is

10:04

bringing back going back to that culture

10:07

of of togetherness and maybe the family

10:09

everybody knows at least 10 maybe 50

10:12

Serbian songs there's not one song you

10:15

can sing in Holland that everybody knows

10:17

you cannot go into a bar and start

10:19

singing a song that people know from A

10:20

to Z you know and here you can just

10:22

start any song and people will sing it

10:25

>> you to sit somewhere for hours and hours

10:28

in a basically a restaurant, but uh long

10:31

after you finish your food, the waiters

10:33

won't kick you out or the waiter. Uh

10:36

sometimes you don't even have to eat. Uh

10:37

sometimes after 2 hours, somebody else

10:40

will start eating. So there's this

10:42

freedom or just not not strict rules

10:44

like in a restaurant, you sit and you

10:46

know, you eat your food and then go

10:48

again. It's a social thing, you know. I

10:50

can spend hours in a cafana, you know.

10:52

It's it's fantastic. They always close

10:54

too early. I don't know doesn't matter

10:56

to what is the closing time a kafana

10:57

will always close too early you know

10:59

because you're always in a discussion I

11:01

never left the kafana before closing

11:03

time [laughter] because yeah there's no

11:05

closing time in that atmosphere you're

11:07

just you know all together and and

11:10

speaking

11:10

>> what is your favorite kafana in Belgrade

11:12

>> they're disappearing you know they're

11:14

disappearing and some lose their

11:16

character kalanich was a brilliant

11:18

kafana just old school near kalanich in

11:21

brchar but they the quality went down

11:24

and the prices went up so I don't go

11:26

there. There's kafanas that been totally

11:28

transformed and modernized. Horrible. So

11:31

I think mourina

11:34

these are some old school places that

11:36

didn't change in interior uh in menu in

11:39

in atmosphere. Last night I was in

11:41

Kotraana. It's a wooden shack in New

11:44

Belgrade between the blocks and

11:46

fantastic food, great waitresses,

11:48

elderly ladies who run the place for I

11:50

don't know how long. I don't like the

11:52

polished ones. I like the ones with the

11:54

least decoration, so to say, where all

11:56

about the food and the people.

11:58

>> It's Tito.

11:58

>> Yeah, it's Tito. Yeah, I think we have

12:00

to buy a new calendar, but uh this is

12:02

2024, so a few more months. Still people

12:04

buy them apparently, not just me. Uh we

12:07

have a map of Yugoslavia. Here we have

12:09

our This is our business card. It's also

12:11

detail on the Yugo tour. And

12:12

>> what's the medal?

12:14

>> Uh the medal is was a championship for

12:17

rowing. We rented some bikes to a German

12:20

or Dutch rowing team and they won and

12:22

they were so happy with the bikes that

12:24

they gave us a medal.

12:25

>> As a student or even as before studying

12:28

when I was 16 15 I started traveling to

12:30

Eastern Europe uh with friends uh just

12:33

to discover it. It was still a bit

12:35

unknown uh in in the west of Europe. We

12:38

were told at school uh that uh it was

12:41

very scary there in Eastern Europe. You

12:43

know I'm talking about the 80s. I'm born

12:44

in 1977. So it was still there was a big

12:48

wall somewhere in Europe and behind that

12:49

wall everything was in black and white

12:52

literally everything was gray people

12:55

were not nice they had a bomb and they

12:57

want to throw it on us that's how we

12:58

were educated in the cold war you could

13:00

say and uh I want to find out for myself

13:03

and I discovered that everything was in

13:05

color people are very nice nobody they

13:07

want to hurt us was it emotionally

13:09

difficult for you to overcome these uh

13:12

stereotypes that you had uh in Western

13:15

Europe about Serbia when you came here.

13:18

>> I I traveled already in Eastern Europe.

13:21

So you you maybe the first time I don't

13:23

remember that so good, but the first

13:24

time I went there I was probably more

13:26

afraid or a bit more cautious. Let me

13:28

put it that way. Like okay, you know,

13:29

you only hear the bad story. So what can

13:31

I expect? But you know soon enough uh

13:34

you you lose that caution or you see

13:36

that people are just just you you know

13:38

and and even friendly and you know uh so

13:42

I think the first time in when I came to

13:44

the Balkans I I I lost that tension a

13:47

bit you know I traveled so much already.

13:49

It was a very different period than now.

13:51

You know it was 2004. I also traveled to

13:53

to Kosovo where you know it was a very

13:55

tense situation uh with a lot of

13:57

militaries on the street. So that was

14:00

quite uh new to me. But at that point I

14:03

was studying sociology and international

14:05

relations and I studied a lot about

14:06

communism and the fall of Yugoslavia and

14:08

so I think it it was very interesting

14:11

for me more than scary. Uh I didn't have

14:13

that uh you know prejudices that that a

14:17

lot of people maybe had.

14:17

>> Do you remember any particular moment

14:19

when you realized that it's safe here?

14:22

>> Well I never saw so much military in my

14:24

life. It felt pretty [laughter] safe.

14:28

The first tank I ever saw was was here,

14:30

you know, but that was back then. You

14:32

know what you have your cautious like I

14:33

said in the beginning, especially when I

14:35

was traveling to Eastern Europe and I

14:36

remember we were staying at some

14:37

campsite with some friends outside some

14:39

town in the middle of nowhere and some

14:41

guy just offered us a ride to the train

14:43

station where we had to go instead of

14:45

taking a taxi. And as Dutch guys who,

14:48

you know, we were like, I know what's

14:50

we're going to get in this, you know,

14:51

broken down old Mercedes with this big,

14:54

you know, unshaved Eastern Balk Eastern

14:57

Eastern European guy, you know,

14:58

everything from the from the movies

15:00

like, should we do this? Is this safe?

15:02

Will he, you know, dump us somewhere and

15:04

steal our passports or something? I

15:05

remember that moment. And he just drove

15:07

us to the station and we wanted to offer

15:10

him money, you know, and he didn't want

15:11

to take the money. It was just

15:12

friendliness and that was maybe a moment

15:15

like that. like you think oh like all my

15:18

you know the thoughts and the images you

15:20

have in your head are are not right

15:23

you're confronted with your own you know

15:25

prejudices

15:25

>> how Serbia has changed during the time

15:28

that you've been here

15:29

>> well I can't tell the change over 20

15:32

years it's because it changes every day

15:34

almost and that's what I'm that what

15:37

makes it for me very interesting you

15:38

know there's uh it's changing in in a

15:40

good way you could say in one way you

15:42

know economically there's really less

15:45

poverty And a lot of people are leaving

15:47

better than 20 years ago. I see as a

15:50

sort of yugo nostalgic person that I am,

15:53

you know, I find Yugoslavia very

15:55

interesting. I find that period very

15:57

interesting uh politically uh but also

16:00

in a design way or in a matter of life.

16:03

So I see that disappearing you know I

16:06

see less zustavas on the street. I see

16:09

old kafanas which I love disappearing.

16:12

Uh so a lot of traces of the past are

16:15

disappearing and what you see in a place

16:18

like the Netherlands where I'm from

16:19

people preserve the past a lot you know

16:21

they do a lot of trouble to to keep old

16:23

buildings uh standing and renovate them

16:26

and everything they pay a lot of

16:28

attention here on that there and uh here

16:32

it seems sometimes the opposite you know

16:34

old buildings even protected buildings

16:36

being demolished just to place a new

16:38

building so I think um maybe It's a

16:42

result of the urge of uh uh going

16:45

forwards. You know, uh the Balkans has

16:48

been on a standstill during the '90s

16:50

because of the troubles here. Maybe they

16:52

tried to catch up and there's

16:53

development that goes very quick and the

16:55

old is not cared about. you know, it's

16:56

like let's get out with everything

16:58

that's old and and place replace it with

17:01

something new, which as a nostalgic

17:03

person like me, what attracted me also

17:05

maybe in the first place, you know, that

17:06

everything is a bit older and not

17:08

everything is modern and developed and

17:10

it's different here, you know, uh

17:12

[snorts] that's that's a big change that

17:13

you visually uh see. This car is an old

17:17

one from 1977

17:19

and uh it's still function and still

17:21

running and uh yeah we keep them up to

17:23

date and uh we use them like a time

17:25

machine you know to get the real

17:27

experience and feel of how was it living

17:28

in Yugoslavia

17:30

>> and well as we go into the car you might

17:32

feel surprised how comfortable the car

17:34

is as most of our tourists do. So let's

17:36

come right in.

17:36

>> My first ride in Zastava. Okay. Uh the

17:40

handle's a bit shaky.

17:42

>> Yeah. The thing is right now you're with

17:44

me in the front but people like to sit

17:46

most in the back because there's no seat

17:48

belt in the back

17:49

>> and well you know people feel the

17:51

freedom like oh man when I was a kid I

17:53

was driving in one car like this we

17:55

didn't have to put seat belts and

17:56

everything so

17:56

>> yeah yeah

17:57

>> it's a bit gives you more freedom let's

17:59

say

17:59

>> it's so you know

18:02

mechanic

18:02

>> oh yeah tell me about it the first time

18:06

I drove it this power steering thing you

18:08

know it's like you don't need to go to

18:11

the gym afterwards you worked uh in NGO

18:15

when you first came to to

18:16

>> Balkans. What we were doing basically uh

18:18

was helping young people starting their

18:20

own business. Uh this was uh back then

18:24

uh the way uh in Holland was fought

18:27

about helping people in uh postconlict

18:30

areas as it was still named this area.

18:33

How do we help people? Not to by sending

18:35

just money or building schools or

18:37

something. No, but to help people help

18:40

themselves, you know, by starting

18:41

businesses and everything. We were

18:43

working with local people, a lot local

18:44

colleagues. Uh we didn't want to come in

18:46

as a bunch of foreigners who did

18:48

everything. So, we we really had the

18:52

team local was bigger than the team from

18:54

Amsterdam where we were. Our goal was to

18:56

help young people start their own

18:57

business. But our hidden agenda you

18:59

could say or our secondary goal was also

19:02

to teach our local colleagues how to

19:04

organize and how to work in a western

19:07

way you could say or whatever just to

19:09

how how to work good that emails should

19:13

be answered directly that you should

19:14

organize and plan ahead and all these

19:17

yeah things that is very normal for us

19:19

in Holland but not necessarily here but

19:21

to my surprise I was actually learning

19:24

just as much from the work work ethics

19:26

here which we didn't

19:28

And I think that is in general a thing

19:30

uh in in richer countries or more

19:32

developed countries, western countries,

19:34

they have a kind of we could almost call

19:37

it arrogance, but because they're richer

19:39

and more developed, they think their

19:41

their work ethics are the absolute best.

19:43

And uh that's why they want to teach

19:45

others, tell others how to do it in this

19:47

best way. But it's not always true or

19:50

there it's not an absolute truth. Uh you

19:52

can learn a lot from work ethics from

19:54

other places too. So I learned to you

19:57

know don't take everything so s

19:59

seriously uh have a meeting with a

20:02

coffee on a terrace and not you know

20:04

plan a meeting three weeks ahead in a

20:06

special room reserve it for that

20:07

meeting. No you can do the things in a

20:10

more relaxed way so to say and enjoy

20:12

enjoy work more uh don't be don't be the

20:15

robot and the machine you know to to get

20:18

to the goal but also make getting to the

20:20

goal a more pleasant experience so to

20:22

say. I brought a lot of that work ethics

20:24

back to Holland and sometimes it went

20:26

wrong there because I wanted to have a

20:28

coffee with people you know on a terrace

20:30

in Holland but they didn't understand

20:32

that you know what you also see is

20:34

sometimes with foreign NOS's or foreign

20:36

companies they try to bring the system

20:38

they use at home uh here and try to

20:41

implement it here but that's that's uh

20:43

also very hard and I learned that for

20:45

instance in the Balkans it's hard to

20:47

plan anything but it's super easy to

20:50

arrange something I remember we had some

20:52

And uh it was in Macedonia I think and

20:55

we it was in a half a year. So we tried

20:57

to find a transport company, a bus

21:00

company to to work for us on that day, 6

21:02

months later, but there was no company

21:05

that could make an agreement. Oh, in 6

21:06

months we will be the there and there

21:08

and there on that spot. In Holland, you

21:10

could do that. Of course, you can plan

21:11

things two years ahead if you want. But

21:13

we had to wait like for three days

21:16

before the event, you know, and then

21:17

call the company and say, "Hey, do you

21:19

have a bus free?" you know, oh yeah, we

21:21

can do it. Uh, [snorts] and there was a

21:23

lot of these uh kind of emergency or

21:25

last minute situations which things you

21:27

cannot plan, you know, because they're

21:28

just happening which couldn't could not

21:30

have been solved in a country like

21:32

Holland, but here everybody knows

21:34

somebody and has a connection and

21:36

everything can be arranged. So nothing

21:38

can be planned, but everything can be

21:39

arranged.

21:39

>> So you had kind of reverse cultural

21:42

shocks back in Netherland.

21:44

>> Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I've rolled back

21:45

some habits also not just work things

21:47

but also hospitality or friendliness or

21:51

um you know here men still open the

21:54

doors for for ladies because it's nice

21:56

or that's how you should do things and I

21:58

remember coming back in Holland once

22:00

after a few weeks in the Balkans and I

22:02

did the same I got used to opening the

22:04

door for my female colleague and I just

22:06

hit her head very hard because she

22:08

didn't see it coming and she didn't

22:10

expect me to open the door for her so

22:12

[laughter] that was really a culture

22:14

clash literally you could say not

22:16

everything that works there works over

22:18

there and and vice versa of course.

22:21

>> How did you get accustomed to this kind

22:23

of unpredictability to not be able to

22:26

plan ahead but to to be able to arrange

22:30

everything?

22:31

>> Well, I don't give up on planning. I

22:32

still try to plan. I work in tourism and

22:34

I also I work with foreign clients 99%

22:37

of the time and they expect things to be

22:39

arranged a year ahead. Sometimes I get

22:41

bookings, you know, now already for

22:43

something that will happen in September

22:45

2026. So I what I can arrange myself I

22:49

do, but sometimes you need partners and

22:51

I I still try to plan uh but you just

22:54

have to be aware that it's not always

22:55

plannable and that things might change.

22:57

Uh and um be ready for that. Sometimes I

23:01

plan things double. you know, I'll if we

23:04

keep stick to the the example of uh

23:06

organizing transport for a group or

23:08

something, I might, you know, organize

23:11

two transport companies already a few

23:13

months ahead, you know, and then I will

23:15

cancel one a month before or something

23:17

or something like that. You sometimes

23:19

plan things double, you know, just to

23:21

make sure that one thing happens. You

23:23

also have to, you know, be ready for the

23:24

disappointment. Don't go into stress

23:26

mode uh when something is canceled last

23:29

minute, for instance. And uh I think

23:31

well what I learned is you have to

23:33

believe a little bit in magic. It sounds

23:34

a bit weird. Uh I'm a very rational

23:37

business guy. I guess you know when it

23:39

comes to business but uh in the 15 years

23:41

that I worked here I've been in so many

23:45

situations where you think oh no you

23:46

know everything is going to fall apart.

23:48

This is not happening. And it all, you

23:52

know, somehow did happen and it went

23:55

well, you know, and our guest uh just

23:57

didn't notice anything of all the things

23:59

that went back bad on the background.

24:02

And I I really started to believe in

24:04

kind of magic like, you know, how does

24:06

how does it always work out, you know?

24:09

>> Okay, we have customers.

24:11

>> Yeah, good. Okay. Hi. Hello.

24:14

>> Uh we have an interview here, but uh I

24:16

can help you if you uh if you want to

24:18

rent the bike, maybe. Yeah, we want but

24:20

unfortunately I forgot for all my

24:22

documents.

24:23

>> No problem. You can leave your wife here

24:25

and you can rent the bike and then when

24:26

you come back you can get your wife

24:28

back. [laughter]

24:30

>> No, not a good deal. The other way

24:31

around.

24:32

>> No, no, no. It's it's okay. Uh you can

24:35

rent a bike. Do you have maybe some

24:37

photo of your passport or something like

24:38

that? Then we'll just do that.

24:40

>> Personally, I got the impression that

24:42

Belgrade is not bike friendly city. How

24:45

did you get this idea to open here a

24:47

bike rent?

24:48

>> I am from Holland so we always bike. We

24:52

a bit naive I think you know or I was

24:55

and I I see that with other Dutch people

24:56

coming here as well. We can just think

24:58

we can bike anywhere. So as long as you

25:01

don't think it's impossible, it's

25:03

possible. You understand? Uh people who

25:05

grow up here think probably okay it's

25:06

not possible to bike or it's unsafe so

25:08

you won't bike. But if you're stupid

25:10

enough and come from Holland and you

25:12

don't know that, you just start biking

25:14

and it is possible. I I I ride my bike

25:17

every day through the city and I'm not

25:18

an extreme good biker or something. And

25:21

you just have to learn to be aware that

25:24

people don't expect you because there's

25:26

not so many bikes on the streets. Uh I

25:28

always tell people from countries where

25:30

biking is more normal. Then just know

25:33

that people don't watch their right

25:35

mirror in their car when they turn

25:37

right. they don't expect the bike to

25:38

come and if you follow these little you

25:40

know tricks if you just look out for the

25:42

other as well uh it's pretty possible to

25:45

bike not everywhere of course um but

25:49

yeah I came here in 2011 and um I I I

25:53

was missing bike tours here because

25:55

everywhere I would go on holiday and to

25:58

a city like Barcelona or Rome I would

26:00

always first do a bike tour uh and

26:03

that's way you can see a lot of the city

26:05

of a big city in a short period of time.

26:09

And for me, there was always a good

26:10

basis for starting uh exploring a city.

26:13

And it was missing here. There was no

26:14

bike tours at all in Belgrade. So I

26:16

thought, why isn't it here? Why

26:18

shouldn't I do it? and I could combine

26:21

uh my knowledge about biking knowledge

26:24

like this because it's just I was born

26:26

and raised with cycling because I'm

26:28

Dutch and uh share my passion and

26:30

interest in uh in the Balkans in uh

26:34

Belgrade also in Yugoslavia. I wanted to

26:36

live in Belgrade. I want to move here uh

26:39

just because I wanted that. There was no

26:41

other no really logical reason and then

26:44

I had to do something here to make money

26:45

and to do yeah this was for me a logical

26:49

thing was very illogical for everybody

26:51

here to start bike tours so I think uh

26:54

bit naivity stupidity and just go for it

26:58

mentality I took one month to

27:01

get a buy a secondhand bike and I was

27:04

just biking through the city I I've been

27:06

working in the region for a while I knew

27:07

Belgrade a little bit I had friends here

27:09

as Well, but I just every day I got on

27:12

my bike and got lost. I just biked till

27:14

I couldn't bike anymore or you know I

27:17

just discovered a whole city every in

27:19

and out. That was one of the luckiest

27:21

the happiest periods of my life. I think

27:23

I had an office job you know and I was

27:26

always working for somebody else but

27:27

suddenly I had the freedom. I was living

27:29

in Belgrade which I loved and I had this

27:32

independence and I was riding a bike

27:34

every day getting lost discovering you

27:36

know all these new places. So I took a

27:38

month or something to develop the tours

27:40

and um I made some flyers. I made a very

27:43

simple website. So I think after two

27:47

months of me riding a bike in Belgrade,

27:49

I was the number one thing to do above

27:50

Kamedon, above St. Saba, you know, Trip

27:53

Advisor everywhere. [laughter] I was the

27:55

number one thing to do. So

27:57

>> what is the most challenging thing for

27:59

you in running business in Serbia?

28:01

>> I never was faced with any form of

28:03

corruption or somebody trying to, you

28:05

know, make me pay for something. But I

28:07

must say uh one challenge it was

28:09

especially at the beginning when setting

28:10

up uh bureaucracy wise actually was I

28:13

wanted to pay taxes. I started uh I

28:16

started with a secondhand bike standing

28:18

on the street every day at 2:00 people

28:20

would come to me and we would start

28:22

biking. They would pay me in cash. I

28:24

didn't have any other way to to handle

28:25

that. And I went to the tax office. I

28:27

say look I start this business. I want

28:29

to pay tax. I want to be 100% legal. And

28:32

I had to struggle so much to to pay tax.

28:35

You know, [laughter]

28:36

I went to the tax office six times. They

28:38

said, "Yeah, but you you where do you

28:40

work?" I say, "Yeah, I work on the

28:41

streets." And yeah, where do you make

28:42

your payments? Yeah, on the street. You

28:44

know, there was no other option for me,

28:46

you know. I don't have an office. I have

28:47

a laptop. That's my office. But the

28:49

system is so old that they don't

28:51

understand that you can run a business

28:52

without an office, you know. I I don't

28:54

you know, I hope they change it now

28:56

because now a lot of people work from

28:57

their laptop, you know, but back in the

28:59

days at least, they didn't understand

29:01

that. And they came with an official

29:03

answer at after a few months saying,

29:05

"Okay, we found the answer. You have to

29:07

buy a car, register at a taxi and then

29:10

you can uh you know make uh receipts

29:13

like a taxi."

29:14

>> I said, "I'm a bike company, man. I

29:16

don't want to buy a car

29:18

>> for you to pay taxes, you know."

29:20

>> So that was just complicated. I don't

29:22

know. I got some accountant and we

29:24

solved it and I'm nicely paying taxes

29:26

now.

29:26

>> Who are the most challenging customers

29:28

to deal with? With no offense, let me

29:30

explain this. but ser [laughter]

29:34

and that's because they know of course

29:36

you're you're telling something as a

29:37

foreigner or something as my guides are

29:40

all locals but uh when I was still

29:42

guiding a lot myself and I was starting

29:44

sometimes there would be a Serbian guest

29:47

normally bringing foreigners uh on a

29:49

tour and they would join themselves but

29:50

you would always get in a discussion you

29:52

know because I would say the SIF

29:54

building the pedals of Serbia would be

29:56

built in 1961 and then you know the guy

29:59

on the tour from here would say no No,

30:01

my grandfather helped building this and

30:03

it was 1962 or something. I mean it more

30:06

jokingly, but of course they they know

30:08

more than you or they have a personal

30:10

experience with things as well. That's

30:12

also it can also get delicate. Of

30:13

course, if you're talking about politics

30:15

or even history is not so 100% defined,

30:18

especially when you talk about

30:19

Yugoslavia or the break up of

30:20

Yugoslavia. Yeah, there's a lot of

30:22

opinions about it and different

30:25

interpretations about what happened. So

30:27

if you tell that story to a foreigner

30:28

who knows nothing about it, they will

30:31

believe what you say. But if you tell it

30:33

to people from the region for instance,

30:34

yeah, they might have something else

30:36

other opinion uh about it. I'm not

30:39

saying it's uh not nice. It's actually

30:42

nice because you learn from it uh

30:44

sometimes and this interaction is great,

30:47

of course. So it makes it much more

30:49

interesting than just telling your story

30:50

and everybody saying yes, I believe you.

30:52

Has the influx of Russians somehow

30:54

influenced your business?

30:57

>> Well, it influenced it um in kind of a

30:59

positive way because the people from

31:01

Russia that moved to Belgrade in the

31:04

past years, there's a lot of cyclists

31:05

there much more than Serbians actually.

31:07

I don't know, they live here and they're

31:09

not the typical tourist uh but they want

31:11

to go for a longer ride for instance and

31:13

want to rent a good bike for for that.

31:16

We had a lot of families with young kids

31:19

uh suddenly. So I noticed I had to buy

31:21

more kids seats uh because of Russian

31:23

families uh coming. These are small

31:25

things but that's how I noticed.

31:27

>> How do you estimate the influence of

31:29

Russians who came here after 2022 in

31:32

general? You know, there's a sort of a

31:33

general idea like, okay, these Russians,

31:35

they all came together almost at the

31:38

same time and they stick together and

31:40

they made their make their own like city

31:42

within the city. You know, they have

31:44

their own cafes, uh, uh, shops,

31:47

bakeries, hairdressers, everything and

31:50

their own services. Um, which is a true

31:52

thing. So, you don't meet a Russian on

31:54

the street so quickly or in a bar, you

31:57

would say, because they stick to their

31:58

own uh, crowd. when I meet them here in

32:00

my shop personally I got a really

32:03

different opinion really nice open

32:06

people and we have very nice long

32:08

discussions you know or talks and really

32:11

friendly so there is this idea that it's

32:14

as a community or to me it's a quite

32:16

close community uh but the people are

32:18

just very friendly and open actually uh

32:21

I don't know the historical cultural

32:23

sociological explanation for that and if

32:25

I'm right it's just my experience but uh

32:28

that's how I notice it.

32:30

>> Yeah.

32:30

>> And I I studied sociology and

32:32

international relations. So what's

32:34

happening with a move of one group of

32:36

people from one country because of

32:37

political reasons to another country?

32:39

Yeah. It's super fascinating for me to

32:41

see this happening. I find it

32:43

fascinating that you know you you have

32:45

to go leave your your hometown, your

32:48

home place uh and leave everything

32:50

behind. But you see people starting

32:52

businesses here and you know developing

32:54

things here. You know, nobody knows how

32:56

long you're going to stay here. you

32:58

know, probably most people were hoping

33:00

it was like a few months and going back.

33:02

But yeah, I'm quite uh impressed by the

33:06

guys who start and girls who start

33:08

businesses at least, you know, I think

33:09

they also bring a lot of new stuff, you

33:12

know. I think especially the guys from

33:14

Moscow and St. Petersburg, it's much

33:16

more hip there. I think it's a bit

33:18

bigger metropol, of course, the kind of

33:20

design they bring in their shops and

33:22

everything. Uh the music they bring.

33:24

I've been to some festivals with Russian

33:26

music and bands which I never would have

33:28

seen else and it's very avanguard and

33:32

very very cool [snorts] and my maybe my

33:35

guiding background you had the same

33:37

influx of Russians in 1917 during the

33:39

the revolution then it's interesting the

33:42

first uh ballet uh performance in in in

33:46

Serbia was done then by Russians you

33:48

know they brought ballet to to to Serbia

33:51

if I'm correct

33:52

>> what is the main thing that Serb about

33:55

torture.

33:56

>> They're different, you know, can be

33:57

different and you can be better off on

34:00

your side, but it doesn't mean that the

34:02

other side is is is bad. I'm thinking of

34:05

Holland as a country, as a rich country

34:06

and a democracy and everything is

34:08

orderly and everybody follows the rules

34:10

and nice and we're on top of a lot of

34:12

things, you know, in the statistics in

34:14

the world, you know, healthiest country,

34:16

happiest country, richest country, and

34:17

everything. That makes people feel

34:19

better sometimes than people in other

34:21

countries. And I learned there's that's

34:23

just complete You know,

34:25

there's nothing to be feeling better

34:27

about. You know, people here uh have

34:30

just as much uh good things uh speaking

34:33

for them uh as as people in Holland and

34:36

even more maybe.

34:37

>> What is the most valuable thing that you

34:39

found in Serbia?

34:40

>> Well, I have to say my wife, of course,

34:42

cuz you will see this I think.

34:44

[laughter]

34:45

But it's true. my wife and and uh her

34:48

family, you know, is yeah, it's just

34:50

amazing for a simple Dutch guy to be

34:52

welcomed. Yeah, that makes me feel

34:54

special always, you know, to just be

34:56

there. And I'm still after 15 years in a

34:59

foreigner, you know, and a strange as

35:01

they call it. And it still feels like

35:02

that also because I'm maybe not speaking

35:04

fluently Serbian, you're still outside

35:06

or maybe I will always be a bit distr,

35:09

you know, and I I don't know. It's maybe

35:11

also going back to my Yugo nostalgia

35:13

again. Sometimes I can be here in

35:16

Belgrade or somewhere else in in the

35:18

region or in Serbia driving in one of my

35:21

old sustavas

35:23

specifically and I nothing reminds me of

35:26

2025. But even when you walk drive to a

35:29

little town or something and there's

35:30

nothing modern, you know, which you see

35:32

as a positive thing, not that everything

35:34

is old, no, but you know, you're not com

35:37

you can go back in time a little bit

35:39

like, oh, it's 1970 or 1980, you know.

35:42

For me personally, that's a very these

35:44

are very nice experience which I can

35:45

only find here and not in Holland for

35:47

instance. You know, something can be old

35:49

for a while. You know, there's still

35:51

streets call being called after Tito,

35:53

for instance. I I like that. You know,

35:55

it's Yeah, it's from the old days, but

35:57

it's still there.

35:59

>> Do you personally feel Yugo nostalgic?

36:02

>> Well, I wasn't born in Yugoslav. It was

36:04

already Serbia. I'm much younger than

36:06

that. So I can't really feel you

36:09

nostalgic but you know I feel u from the

36:11

stories of my grandpas and grandmas like

36:14

that it was really nice to be there you

36:17

know because you you had connections all

36:19

over the country everybody was friendly

36:22

everything was doing fine and u yeah you

36:25

know like I'm friendly with people I

36:27

like to hang out so I feel that now

36:30

there is a bit of animosity right now

36:33

but um for example I do have a friend

36:34

from Croatia and One time there was a

36:37

Ramstein concert in Belgra and he's a

36:39

huge Ramstein fan. So, um, we went to

36:42

the concert and, uh, you know, I like

36:45

the guy no matter like I'm Serbian, he's

36:47

creation, but we do connect, you know,

36:49

and, uh, he's a good guy, I'm a good

36:51

guy, so why shouldn't we hang out? But,

36:53

you know, I I know that there are some

36:55

people from Croatia and Serbia as well

36:57

that saying like, oh, I would never go

36:59

to Croatia. I would never go to Serbia,

37:01

you know, and I feel that u it's a

37:03

shame, you know, that there is no unity

37:05

anymore. [music]

37:14

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Interactive Summary

Ralph, a Dutchman, moved to Serbia 15 years ago, where he married and established a successful bike rental and vintage car tour business in Belgrade. He shares humorous and insightful cultural observations, including a story of being offered rakia after accidentally scratching a car, the surprising strictness of traffic lights, and the unique status of foreigners ("stranac"). Ralph discusses the deep importance of family in Serbian culture, the vibrant and all-encompassing role of the traditional "kafana," and the challenges and rewards of adapting to a less predictable, yet highly resourceful, way of life and work. He also reflects on Serbia's rapid modernization, the disappearing traces of its Yugoslav past, and the recent influence of Russian migrants, concluding that his most valuable find in Serbia is his wife and her welcoming family, alongside the distinct charm of a country that allows a glimpse into the past.

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