The hard truth about life in Belgrade Serbia after 15 years
1032 segments
Only in Serbia somebody could give you a
bolarakia because you hit his car.
>> This is Ralph. 15 years ago [music] he
moved from the Netherlands to Serbia
where he married a Serbian wife and
opened a bike rental business in
Belgrid. Today besides renting bikes he
also [music] runs yoga tours tours
around Belgrid in an old zasta by
exploring Yugoslav monuments and
architecture. He shared how Kafana
explains life in Serbia, the main
lessons he learned from Serbs about work
culture, and how you can find unexpected
[music] warmth here even in the most
unlikely situations. IMO, we have three
Zastava cars which we use to show the
city to to our guests to old. One is
like almost 50 years old and there's a
little bit of slope in front of the shop
here and we put stones uh behind the
wheels to to stop them from rolling
back. So, one of my guides one day, a
few few weeks ago took the stones away
and the car decided to already start
rolling backwards. Uh the handbrake
didn't work. It was in first gear, but
it just didn't want to stay and we
couldn't do anything. It was just
rolling in front of our eyes and it's a
very busy street here and we just saw it
going on the street. it would be a huge
traffic accident. Luckily, some guy just
turned here on this parking and it
ramped the car in the front and it also
scratched uh another car. Anyway, long
story short, the guy uh who we hit, we
gave some money and it wasn't that big
damage luckily. And then the other car
that was parked here and it's was
scratched pretty badly. Uh the guy
wasn't there, the owner. So, after an
hour or two, uh I was working in my shop
and I saw him getting into his car. He
didn't even notice it was scratched. And
I came came to him. I said, "Sir, sir,
uh, sorry, you know, I scratched your
car and in my bed Serbian." And the guy
said, "Okay, yeah, what can I do? You
know, the the guy who hit my car is gone
now." He said, "No, no, no." We had to
explain it again. We hit your car. You
know, that's our car there. It hit He
still didn't get it. He said, "You
waited for me. You're coming to tell me
that your you hit my car. You're telling
me?" But instead of getting angry and
and everything, he opened the hood of
his car, the back of his car, got out a
bottle of rakia and gave us a bottle of
rakia because we were so honest to tell
him that we damaged his car. Only in
Serbia somebody could give you a bottle
of rakia because you hit his car. This
Dutch couple came to Ralph's place to
take a tour around Belgrit in one of the
zast ofas. Of course, I asked them about
the biggest shock in Serbia and the
answer really shocked me too. Did you
have any cultural shocks here?
>> There's one. People are waiting for the
red light.
>> Oh yeah.
>> Before uh crossing the streets.
>> Before crossing the streets. Yeah. In
the Netherlands a red light is more like
an advice. Like we advise you to stop
but
>> basically everybody just walks on. And
here people wait
>> up until the green light and then they
walk. That's Yeah, that's a cultural
show.
>> Being akisette.
Do you think it's kind of a status here?
>> Well, it's like the golden ticket. I
even tell my Serbian friends, you know,
sometimes they should just act like
they're foreigner and saying they're
serette because, you know, it will in a
kafana it will give you free get you
free rakia. You know, if they know
you're gizette, the waiter will go.
I don't know why, but [laughter]
uh I was stopped a few times uh with the
because I broke traffic laws, you know,
speeding, but I never got a fine, you
know, as soon as soon as I pulled out
the the golden surfette card, they would
say, "Oh, wait, your surf kiset. Ah,
then it's okay. Then you can go." you
know, they they think either we're one
I'm one of them, you know, or they feel
so sorry that I married a Serbian wife
and [laughter]
they feel like, "Oh, I'm so sorry that
here I have Iraq." Yeah. Don't pay the
fine.
>> Was it difficult to overcome cultural
differences between you and your wife in
everyday life?
>> Well, I don't know if we overcame all of
them. [laughter]
I think there's some cultural
differences you just have to accept and
live with. For one thing, there there is
enuties.
I think Balkcon thing uh where people
are so stubborn is not logical anymore.
It hurts themselves. And I don't know if
it's my wife uh because she is a woman,
if it's uh because she is Serbian or
because it's her character or it's me,
you know, because I'm not a nice guy or
something. But sometimes this enut comes
up or this this fights come up and I say
like this is not logical. Why are you
doing this? Stop it. And she will just
continue with it. You know, in Holland,
we don't care so much how we look. You
know, it's it's okay just to wear your
old clothes. And for my wife, it's very
different. You know, she she wants me to
to look okay when I go on the street.
Yesterday, we were in the in the
elevator going from the ground floor to
our apartment. So, we saw nobody, but
still, you know, I had to tuck in my
shirt in my she just automatically she
says, "Hey, tuck in your shirt." Like,
[snorts] "Hey, we're in elevator.
There's nobody else here. You know,
we're at home." I but basically as with
working culture I learned a lot from it.
Uh I learn a lot from family culture and
everything. For example, you have how
how important family is. You know,
family comes on the number one place
above everything. Uh above work uh above
friends. Sometimes it's it's irritating.
You know, you don't want to spend so
much time on family or go to your
funeral of a auntie of a cousin which
you never seen, but you have to go
through all this trouble. Um but you do
it because it is family and it's very
big extended family and that's how it's
a it's a whole system kept in place. I
mean weddings of three 400 people you
can you can't imagine in Holland you
know in Holland you might invite 80
people but 20 for the wedding itself and
then uh there's a reception with 30
other friends kind of and then you
invite another 15 for the dinner because
you're not going to pay dinner for our
80 people, you know. No, it's all going
to be too expensive. And you know, very
regulated, on the money, uh, you know,
not thinking, hey, this is the greatest
day of my life. I want all my friends
and family to spend three days of
partying with me like it happens here
sometimes.
>> You have witnessed Serbian wedding.
>> Yes. Yes. Several. Yeah. Yeah.
>> I was I was shocked when I discovered
that they have this custom of shooting
the tree.
>> I'm still waiting for my moment that
that somebody will give me that gun and
shoot the apple because I got married.
But uh we didn't do it in a traditional
way. We did it quite quickly. So I hope
to do it once big and and and shoot a
gun because you know for a Dutch guy
it's great to shoot a gun you know once
in your life like shoot an apple. But um
yeah know all the customs are are crazy.
I've been to really traditional ones you
know.
>> What shocked you the most? I think first
of all the amount of people invited you
know I've been been on weddings with 400
people like crazy you know and they're
all eating and drinking and they they
start in the morning at 10:00 and I I
remember one wedding it was really big
it was in Anjel we were there at 10:00
in the morning already in a big hall and
you know people were already eating and
and drinking raia full speed you know
and then the kum he came in with a you
know a poor pick a full pig you know
dead but like [laughter] a bomb put it
in front of the the couple like, "Yeah,
here's my gift, you know." And then
everybody was drunk and we drove in this
caravan with, you know, all the cars uh
with the gypsy band with trumpets in the
car as well to get the bride and there
they started shooting. Yeah. But I know
there's a tradition, I don't know if you
heard about it, but the next day um
there somebody should climb on the roof
of the house of the newly wet couple. I
think it's the kum and start demolishing
the roof, throwing the towels on the
ground and the couple comes out and
starts offering him money to stop. I
haven't seen it myself because I haven't
been there, you know, the morning after
the wedding night, but [laughter] I hope
it won't happen to me. But so this is
also a tradition.
>> Okay. Kafana. Uh what what my favorite
topic.
>> Yeah. What what makes uh it so
attractive for you? Do you have uh in
Holland uh something that resembles
kafana? No, you you have something like
a bar, traditional bar. We call it brown
bar because everything is dark brown
wood and they start drinking there at
10:00 in the morning, you know, and just
talking about life and everything. But
there's no food. So, it's it's
absolutely nothing to do with the kafana
actually. I mean, the only thing is that
it's old and traditional and people
drink. But Kafana is a completely
different institution altogether. You
know, I I can't see that working in in
Holland or other any other country for
that matter. My own explanation is the
mix between the Austrian influences here
from the past and the Ottoman
influences. Kafana reminds me on the one
hand of this coffee houses in Vienna,
these grand coffee houses with big art
on the wall and it's quite luxurious and
fancy ladies drink their coffee there.
And then in in Turkey in Istanbul, you
will have the small coffee houses where
only men sit and they smoke all day and
drink their tea. I think these
influences come together in the kafana.
They're not these small coffee houses
like in Turkey, but they are more like
in shape the big gr cafes in from
Vienna, but you know the men are sitting
in it and smoking and talking about
politics like they do in Turkey. So for
me that's the the cultural explanation
of a kafana. Yeah, for me it's it's the
essence of of of the Balkans and of
Serbia and of Belgrade. Everything comes
together there. The joy, the sadness.
After a funeral, you go to the nearest
kafana. There's always kafana next to a
graveyard. With a wedding, you go to the
kafana. Uh when somebody is born, you go
to the kafana. So, it's joy, it's it's
sadness, all these emotions come there.
Uh it's hospitality because you always
been treat are treated really well by
the waiters. It's the food which is, you
know, essential for Serbia and for the
Balkans is great food. It's the drink of
course the raka and the beer that's
flowing unlimitedless you know unlimited
and then there's the singing which is
bringing back going back to that culture
of of togetherness and maybe the family
everybody knows at least 10 maybe 50
Serbian songs there's not one song you
can sing in Holland that everybody knows
you cannot go into a bar and start
singing a song that people know from A
to Z you know and here you can just
start any song and people will sing it
>> you to sit somewhere for hours and hours
in a basically a restaurant, but uh long
after you finish your food, the waiters
won't kick you out or the waiter. Uh
sometimes you don't even have to eat. Uh
sometimes after 2 hours, somebody else
will start eating. So there's this
freedom or just not not strict rules
like in a restaurant, you sit and you
know, you eat your food and then go
again. It's a social thing, you know. I
can spend hours in a cafana, you know.
It's it's fantastic. They always close
too early. I don't know doesn't matter
to what is the closing time a kafana
will always close too early you know
because you're always in a discussion I
never left the kafana before closing
time [laughter] because yeah there's no
closing time in that atmosphere you're
just you know all together and and
speaking
>> what is your favorite kafana in Belgrade
>> they're disappearing you know they're
disappearing and some lose their
character kalanich was a brilliant
kafana just old school near kalanich in
brchar but they the quality went down
and the prices went up so I don't go
there. There's kafanas that been totally
transformed and modernized. Horrible. So
I think mourina
these are some old school places that
didn't change in interior uh in menu in
in atmosphere. Last night I was in
Kotraana. It's a wooden shack in New
Belgrade between the blocks and
fantastic food, great waitresses,
elderly ladies who run the place for I
don't know how long. I don't like the
polished ones. I like the ones with the
least decoration, so to say, where all
about the food and the people.
>> It's Tito.
>> Yeah, it's Tito. Yeah, I think we have
to buy a new calendar, but uh this is
2024, so a few more months. Still people
buy them apparently, not just me. Uh we
have a map of Yugoslavia. Here we have
our This is our business card. It's also
detail on the Yugo tour. And
>> what's the medal?
>> Uh the medal is was a championship for
rowing. We rented some bikes to a German
or Dutch rowing team and they won and
they were so happy with the bikes that
they gave us a medal.
>> As a student or even as before studying
when I was 16 15 I started traveling to
Eastern Europe uh with friends uh just
to discover it. It was still a bit
unknown uh in in the west of Europe. We
were told at school uh that uh it was
very scary there in Eastern Europe. You
know I'm talking about the 80s. I'm born
in 1977. So it was still there was a big
wall somewhere in Europe and behind that
wall everything was in black and white
literally everything was gray people
were not nice they had a bomb and they
want to throw it on us that's how we
were educated in the cold war you could
say and uh I want to find out for myself
and I discovered that everything was in
color people are very nice nobody they
want to hurt us was it emotionally
difficult for you to overcome these uh
stereotypes that you had uh in Western
Europe about Serbia when you came here.
>> I I traveled already in Eastern Europe.
So you you maybe the first time I don't
remember that so good, but the first
time I went there I was probably more
afraid or a bit more cautious. Let me
put it that way. Like okay, you know,
you only hear the bad story. So what can
I expect? But you know soon enough uh
you you lose that caution or you see
that people are just just you you know
and and even friendly and you know uh so
I think the first time in when I came to
the Balkans I I I lost that tension a
bit you know I traveled so much already.
It was a very different period than now.
You know it was 2004. I also traveled to
to Kosovo where you know it was a very
tense situation uh with a lot of
militaries on the street. So that was
quite uh new to me. But at that point I
was studying sociology and international
relations and I studied a lot about
communism and the fall of Yugoslavia and
so I think it it was very interesting
for me more than scary. Uh I didn't have
that uh you know prejudices that that a
lot of people maybe had.
>> Do you remember any particular moment
when you realized that it's safe here?
>> Well I never saw so much military in my
life. It felt pretty [laughter] safe.
The first tank I ever saw was was here,
you know, but that was back then. You
know what you have your cautious like I
said in the beginning, especially when I
was traveling to Eastern Europe and I
remember we were staying at some
campsite with some friends outside some
town in the middle of nowhere and some
guy just offered us a ride to the train
station where we had to go instead of
taking a taxi. And as Dutch guys who,
you know, we were like, I know what's
we're going to get in this, you know,
broken down old Mercedes with this big,
you know, unshaved Eastern Balk Eastern
Eastern European guy, you know,
everything from the from the movies
like, should we do this? Is this safe?
Will he, you know, dump us somewhere and
steal our passports or something? I
remember that moment. And he just drove
us to the station and we wanted to offer
him money, you know, and he didn't want
to take the money. It was just
friendliness and that was maybe a moment
like that. like you think oh like all my
you know the thoughts and the images you
have in your head are are not right
you're confronted with your own you know
prejudices
>> how Serbia has changed during the time
that you've been here
>> well I can't tell the change over 20
years it's because it changes every day
almost and that's what I'm that what
makes it for me very interesting you
know there's uh it's changing in in a
good way you could say in one way you
know economically there's really less
poverty And a lot of people are leaving
better than 20 years ago. I see as a
sort of yugo nostalgic person that I am,
you know, I find Yugoslavia very
interesting. I find that period very
interesting uh politically uh but also
in a design way or in a matter of life.
So I see that disappearing you know I
see less zustavas on the street. I see
old kafanas which I love disappearing.
Uh so a lot of traces of the past are
disappearing and what you see in a place
like the Netherlands where I'm from
people preserve the past a lot you know
they do a lot of trouble to to keep old
buildings uh standing and renovate them
and everything they pay a lot of
attention here on that there and uh here
it seems sometimes the opposite you know
old buildings even protected buildings
being demolished just to place a new
building so I think um maybe It's a
result of the urge of uh uh going
forwards. You know, uh the Balkans has
been on a standstill during the '90s
because of the troubles here. Maybe they
tried to catch up and there's
development that goes very quick and the
old is not cared about. you know, it's
like let's get out with everything
that's old and and place replace it with
something new, which as a nostalgic
person like me, what attracted me also
maybe in the first place, you know, that
everything is a bit older and not
everything is modern and developed and
it's different here, you know, uh
[snorts] that's that's a big change that
you visually uh see. This car is an old
one from 1977
and uh it's still function and still
running and uh yeah we keep them up to
date and uh we use them like a time
machine you know to get the real
experience and feel of how was it living
in Yugoslavia
>> and well as we go into the car you might
feel surprised how comfortable the car
is as most of our tourists do. So let's
come right in.
>> My first ride in Zastava. Okay. Uh the
handle's a bit shaky.
>> Yeah. The thing is right now you're with
me in the front but people like to sit
most in the back because there's no seat
belt in the back
>> and well you know people feel the
freedom like oh man when I was a kid I
was driving in one car like this we
didn't have to put seat belts and
everything so
>> yeah yeah
>> it's a bit gives you more freedom let's
say
>> it's so you know
mechanic
>> oh yeah tell me about it the first time
I drove it this power steering thing you
know it's like you don't need to go to
the gym afterwards you worked uh in NGO
when you first came to to
>> Balkans. What we were doing basically uh
was helping young people starting their
own business. Uh this was uh back then
uh the way uh in Holland was fought
about helping people in uh postconlict
areas as it was still named this area.
How do we help people? Not to by sending
just money or building schools or
something. No, but to help people help
themselves, you know, by starting
businesses and everything. We were
working with local people, a lot local
colleagues. Uh we didn't want to come in
as a bunch of foreigners who did
everything. So, we we really had the
team local was bigger than the team from
Amsterdam where we were. Our goal was to
help young people start their own
business. But our hidden agenda you
could say or our secondary goal was also
to teach our local colleagues how to
organize and how to work in a western
way you could say or whatever just to
how how to work good that emails should
be answered directly that you should
organize and plan ahead and all these
yeah things that is very normal for us
in Holland but not necessarily here but
to my surprise I was actually learning
just as much from the work work ethics
here which we didn't
And I think that is in general a thing
uh in in richer countries or more
developed countries, western countries,
they have a kind of we could almost call
it arrogance, but because they're richer
and more developed, they think their
their work ethics are the absolute best.
And uh that's why they want to teach
others, tell others how to do it in this
best way. But it's not always true or
there it's not an absolute truth. Uh you
can learn a lot from work ethics from
other places too. So I learned to you
know don't take everything so s
seriously uh have a meeting with a
coffee on a terrace and not you know
plan a meeting three weeks ahead in a
special room reserve it for that
meeting. No you can do the things in a
more relaxed way so to say and enjoy
enjoy work more uh don't be don't be the
robot and the machine you know to to get
to the goal but also make getting to the
goal a more pleasant experience so to
say. I brought a lot of that work ethics
back to Holland and sometimes it went
wrong there because I wanted to have a
coffee with people you know on a terrace
in Holland but they didn't understand
that you know what you also see is
sometimes with foreign NOS's or foreign
companies they try to bring the system
they use at home uh here and try to
implement it here but that's that's uh
also very hard and I learned that for
instance in the Balkans it's hard to
plan anything but it's super easy to
arrange something I remember we had some
And uh it was in Macedonia I think and
we it was in a half a year. So we tried
to find a transport company, a bus
company to to work for us on that day, 6
months later, but there was no company
that could make an agreement. Oh, in 6
months we will be the there and there
and there on that spot. In Holland, you
could do that. Of course, you can plan
things two years ahead if you want. But
we had to wait like for three days
before the event, you know, and then
call the company and say, "Hey, do you
have a bus free?" you know, oh yeah, we
can do it. Uh, [snorts] and there was a
lot of these uh kind of emergency or
last minute situations which things you
cannot plan, you know, because they're
just happening which couldn't could not
have been solved in a country like
Holland, but here everybody knows
somebody and has a connection and
everything can be arranged. So nothing
can be planned, but everything can be
arranged.
>> So you had kind of reverse cultural
shocks back in Netherland.
>> Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I've rolled back
some habits also not just work things
but also hospitality or friendliness or
um you know here men still open the
doors for for ladies because it's nice
or that's how you should do things and I
remember coming back in Holland once
after a few weeks in the Balkans and I
did the same I got used to opening the
door for my female colleague and I just
hit her head very hard because she
didn't see it coming and she didn't
expect me to open the door for her so
[laughter] that was really a culture
clash literally you could say not
everything that works there works over
there and and vice versa of course.
>> How did you get accustomed to this kind
of unpredictability to not be able to
plan ahead but to to be able to arrange
everything?
>> Well, I don't give up on planning. I
still try to plan. I work in tourism and
I also I work with foreign clients 99%
of the time and they expect things to be
arranged a year ahead. Sometimes I get
bookings, you know, now already for
something that will happen in September
2026. So I what I can arrange myself I
do, but sometimes you need partners and
I I still try to plan uh but you just
have to be aware that it's not always
plannable and that things might change.
Uh and um be ready for that. Sometimes I
plan things double. you know, I'll if we
keep stick to the the example of uh
organizing transport for a group or
something, I might, you know, organize
two transport companies already a few
months ahead, you know, and then I will
cancel one a month before or something
or something like that. You sometimes
plan things double, you know, just to
make sure that one thing happens. You
also have to, you know, be ready for the
disappointment. Don't go into stress
mode uh when something is canceled last
minute, for instance. And uh I think
well what I learned is you have to
believe a little bit in magic. It sounds
a bit weird. Uh I'm a very rational
business guy. I guess you know when it
comes to business but uh in the 15 years
that I worked here I've been in so many
situations where you think oh no you
know everything is going to fall apart.
This is not happening. And it all, you
know, somehow did happen and it went
well, you know, and our guest uh just
didn't notice anything of all the things
that went back bad on the background.
And I I really started to believe in
kind of magic like, you know, how does
how does it always work out, you know?
>> Okay, we have customers.
>> Yeah, good. Okay. Hi. Hello.
>> Uh we have an interview here, but uh I
can help you if you uh if you want to
rent the bike, maybe. Yeah, we want but
unfortunately I forgot for all my
documents.
>> No problem. You can leave your wife here
and you can rent the bike and then when
you come back you can get your wife
back. [laughter]
>> No, not a good deal. The other way
around.
>> No, no, no. It's it's okay. Uh you can
rent a bike. Do you have maybe some
photo of your passport or something like
that? Then we'll just do that.
>> Personally, I got the impression that
Belgrade is not bike friendly city. How
did you get this idea to open here a
bike rent?
>> I am from Holland so we always bike. We
a bit naive I think you know or I was
and I I see that with other Dutch people
coming here as well. We can just think
we can bike anywhere. So as long as you
don't think it's impossible, it's
possible. You understand? Uh people who
grow up here think probably okay it's
not possible to bike or it's unsafe so
you won't bike. But if you're stupid
enough and come from Holland and you
don't know that, you just start biking
and it is possible. I I I ride my bike
every day through the city and I'm not
an extreme good biker or something. And
you just have to learn to be aware that
people don't expect you because there's
not so many bikes on the streets. Uh I
always tell people from countries where
biking is more normal. Then just know
that people don't watch their right
mirror in their car when they turn
right. they don't expect the bike to
come and if you follow these little you
know tricks if you just look out for the
other as well uh it's pretty possible to
bike not everywhere of course um but
yeah I came here in 2011 and um I I I
was missing bike tours here because
everywhere I would go on holiday and to
a city like Barcelona or Rome I would
always first do a bike tour uh and
that's way you can see a lot of the city
of a big city in a short period of time.
And for me, there was always a good
basis for starting uh exploring a city.
And it was missing here. There was no
bike tours at all in Belgrade. So I
thought, why isn't it here? Why
shouldn't I do it? and I could combine
uh my knowledge about biking knowledge
like this because it's just I was born
and raised with cycling because I'm
Dutch and uh share my passion and
interest in uh in the Balkans in uh
Belgrade also in Yugoslavia. I wanted to
live in Belgrade. I want to move here uh
just because I wanted that. There was no
other no really logical reason and then
I had to do something here to make money
and to do yeah this was for me a logical
thing was very illogical for everybody
here to start bike tours so I think uh
bit naivity stupidity and just go for it
mentality I took one month to
get a buy a secondhand bike and I was
just biking through the city I I've been
working in the region for a while I knew
Belgrade a little bit I had friends here
as Well, but I just every day I got on
my bike and got lost. I just biked till
I couldn't bike anymore or you know I
just discovered a whole city every in
and out. That was one of the luckiest
the happiest periods of my life. I think
I had an office job you know and I was
always working for somebody else but
suddenly I had the freedom. I was living
in Belgrade which I loved and I had this
independence and I was riding a bike
every day getting lost discovering you
know all these new places. So I took a
month or something to develop the tours
and um I made some flyers. I made a very
simple website. So I think after two
months of me riding a bike in Belgrade,
I was the number one thing to do above
Kamedon, above St. Saba, you know, Trip
Advisor everywhere. [laughter] I was the
number one thing to do. So
>> what is the most challenging thing for
you in running business in Serbia?
>> I never was faced with any form of
corruption or somebody trying to, you
know, make me pay for something. But I
must say uh one challenge it was
especially at the beginning when setting
up uh bureaucracy wise actually was I
wanted to pay taxes. I started uh I
started with a secondhand bike standing
on the street every day at 2:00 people
would come to me and we would start
biking. They would pay me in cash. I
didn't have any other way to to handle
that. And I went to the tax office. I
say look I start this business. I want
to pay tax. I want to be 100% legal. And
I had to struggle so much to to pay tax.
You know, [laughter]
I went to the tax office six times. They
said, "Yeah, but you you where do you
work?" I say, "Yeah, I work on the
streets." And yeah, where do you make
your payments? Yeah, on the street. You
know, there was no other option for me,
you know. I don't have an office. I have
a laptop. That's my office. But the
system is so old that they don't
understand that you can run a business
without an office, you know. I I don't
you know, I hope they change it now
because now a lot of people work from
their laptop, you know, but back in the
days at least, they didn't understand
that. And they came with an official
answer at after a few months saying,
"Okay, we found the answer. You have to
buy a car, register at a taxi and then
you can uh you know make uh receipts
like a taxi."
>> I said, "I'm a bike company, man. I
don't want to buy a car
>> for you to pay taxes, you know."
>> So that was just complicated. I don't
know. I got some accountant and we
solved it and I'm nicely paying taxes
now.
>> Who are the most challenging customers
to deal with? With no offense, let me
explain this. but ser [laughter]
and that's because they know of course
you're you're telling something as a
foreigner or something as my guides are
all locals but uh when I was still
guiding a lot myself and I was starting
sometimes there would be a Serbian guest
normally bringing foreigners uh on a
tour and they would join themselves but
you would always get in a discussion you
know because I would say the SIF
building the pedals of Serbia would be
built in 1961 and then you know the guy
on the tour from here would say no No,
my grandfather helped building this and
it was 1962 or something. I mean it more
jokingly, but of course they they know
more than you or they have a personal
experience with things as well. That's
also it can also get delicate. Of
course, if you're talking about politics
or even history is not so 100% defined,
especially when you talk about
Yugoslavia or the break up of
Yugoslavia. Yeah, there's a lot of
opinions about it and different
interpretations about what happened. So
if you tell that story to a foreigner
who knows nothing about it, they will
believe what you say. But if you tell it
to people from the region for instance,
yeah, they might have something else
other opinion uh about it. I'm not
saying it's uh not nice. It's actually
nice because you learn from it uh
sometimes and this interaction is great,
of course. So it makes it much more
interesting than just telling your story
and everybody saying yes, I believe you.
Has the influx of Russians somehow
influenced your business?
>> Well, it influenced it um in kind of a
positive way because the people from
Russia that moved to Belgrade in the
past years, there's a lot of cyclists
there much more than Serbians actually.
I don't know, they live here and they're
not the typical tourist uh but they want
to go for a longer ride for instance and
want to rent a good bike for for that.
We had a lot of families with young kids
uh suddenly. So I noticed I had to buy
more kids seats uh because of Russian
families uh coming. These are small
things but that's how I noticed.
>> How do you estimate the influence of
Russians who came here after 2022 in
general? You know, there's a sort of a
general idea like, okay, these Russians,
they all came together almost at the
same time and they stick together and
they made their make their own like city
within the city. You know, they have
their own cafes, uh, uh, shops,
bakeries, hairdressers, everything and
their own services. Um, which is a true
thing. So, you don't meet a Russian on
the street so quickly or in a bar, you
would say, because they stick to their
own uh, crowd. when I meet them here in
my shop personally I got a really
different opinion really nice open
people and we have very nice long
discussions you know or talks and really
friendly so there is this idea that it's
as a community or to me it's a quite
close community uh but the people are
just very friendly and open actually uh
I don't know the historical cultural
sociological explanation for that and if
I'm right it's just my experience but uh
that's how I notice it.
>> Yeah.
>> And I I studied sociology and
international relations. So what's
happening with a move of one group of
people from one country because of
political reasons to another country?
Yeah. It's super fascinating for me to
see this happening. I find it
fascinating that you know you you have
to go leave your your hometown, your
home place uh and leave everything
behind. But you see people starting
businesses here and you know developing
things here. You know, nobody knows how
long you're going to stay here. you
know, probably most people were hoping
it was like a few months and going back.
But yeah, I'm quite uh impressed by the
guys who start and girls who start
businesses at least, you know, I think
they also bring a lot of new stuff, you
know. I think especially the guys from
Moscow and St. Petersburg, it's much
more hip there. I think it's a bit
bigger metropol, of course, the kind of
design they bring in their shops and
everything. Uh the music they bring.
I've been to some festivals with Russian
music and bands which I never would have
seen else and it's very avanguard and
very very cool [snorts] and my maybe my
guiding background you had the same
influx of Russians in 1917 during the
the revolution then it's interesting the
first uh ballet uh performance in in in
Serbia was done then by Russians you
know they brought ballet to to to Serbia
if I'm correct
>> what is the main thing that Serb about
torture.
>> They're different, you know, can be
different and you can be better off on
your side, but it doesn't mean that the
other side is is is bad. I'm thinking of
Holland as a country, as a rich country
and a democracy and everything is
orderly and everybody follows the rules
and nice and we're on top of a lot of
things, you know, in the statistics in
the world, you know, healthiest country,
happiest country, richest country, and
everything. That makes people feel
better sometimes than people in other
countries. And I learned there's that's
just complete You know,
there's nothing to be feeling better
about. You know, people here uh have
just as much uh good things uh speaking
for them uh as as people in Holland and
even more maybe.
>> What is the most valuable thing that you
found in Serbia?
>> Well, I have to say my wife, of course,
cuz you will see this I think.
[laughter]
But it's true. my wife and and uh her
family, you know, is yeah, it's just
amazing for a simple Dutch guy to be
welcomed. Yeah, that makes me feel
special always, you know, to just be
there. And I'm still after 15 years in a
foreigner, you know, and a strange as
they call it. And it still feels like
that also because I'm maybe not speaking
fluently Serbian, you're still outside
or maybe I will always be a bit distr,
you know, and I I don't know. It's maybe
also going back to my Yugo nostalgia
again. Sometimes I can be here in
Belgrade or somewhere else in in the
region or in Serbia driving in one of my
old sustavas
specifically and I nothing reminds me of
2025. But even when you walk drive to a
little town or something and there's
nothing modern, you know, which you see
as a positive thing, not that everything
is old, no, but you know, you're not com
you can go back in time a little bit
like, oh, it's 1970 or 1980, you know.
For me personally, that's a very these
are very nice experience which I can
only find here and not in Holland for
instance. You know, something can be old
for a while. You know, there's still
streets call being called after Tito,
for instance. I I like that. You know,
it's Yeah, it's from the old days, but
it's still there.
>> Do you personally feel Yugo nostalgic?
>> Well, I wasn't born in Yugoslav. It was
already Serbia. I'm much younger than
that. So I can't really feel you
nostalgic but you know I feel u from the
stories of my grandpas and grandmas like
that it was really nice to be there you
know because you you had connections all
over the country everybody was friendly
everything was doing fine and u yeah you
know like I'm friendly with people I
like to hang out so I feel that now
there is a bit of animosity right now
but um for example I do have a friend
from Croatia and One time there was a
Ramstein concert in Belgra and he's a
huge Ramstein fan. So, um, we went to
the concert and, uh, you know, I like
the guy no matter like I'm Serbian, he's
creation, but we do connect, you know,
and, uh, he's a good guy, I'm a good
guy, so why shouldn't we hang out? But,
you know, I I know that there are some
people from Croatia and Serbia as well
that saying like, oh, I would never go
to Croatia. I would never go to Serbia,
you know, and I feel that u it's a
shame, you know, that there is no unity
anymore. [music]
>> [music]
Ask follow-up questions or revisit key timestamps.
Ralph, a Dutchman, moved to Serbia 15 years ago, where he married and established a successful bike rental and vintage car tour business in Belgrade. He shares humorous and insightful cultural observations, including a story of being offered rakia after accidentally scratching a car, the surprising strictness of traffic lights, and the unique status of foreigners ("stranac"). Ralph discusses the deep importance of family in Serbian culture, the vibrant and all-encompassing role of the traditional "kafana," and the challenges and rewards of adapting to a less predictable, yet highly resourceful, way of life and work. He also reflects on Serbia's rapid modernization, the disappearing traces of its Yugoslav past, and the recent influence of Russian migrants, concluding that his most valuable find in Serbia is his wife and her welcoming family, alongside the distinct charm of a country that allows a glimpse into the past.
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