Inside The Most Cursed 47 Miles on Planet Earth
308 segments
Hey Thoughty2 here. On an unreasonably humid morning in 1854, the chief engineer of the
Panama railroad was woken by a man, outside his hut, screaming at the top of his lungs. What he
saw when he opened the door, he later wrote, was something he would never forget if he lived to
be a thousand years old. It was genuinely one of the most shocking sights I’ve ever spoken about
on this channel, more on that in a minute, but first how did we get here in the first place?
The Panama railroad stretches just 47 miles, from the Atlantic to the Pacific. By railway standards,
that's nothing. But these aren't your average 47 miles of track,
because they go through one of the most inhospitable places on the planet,
and no it’s not Luton. This stretch of railway unlocked the world and supercharged global trade,
but it came at the cost of 12,000 lives. That's 255 deaths for every mile of track laid.
But to the money moguls and market movers, it didn't matter one bit. The Panama Railroad became
one of the most profitable enterprises in American history. For a while, it was the highest-priced
stock on the New York Stock Exchange, and investors on Wall Street became filthy rich whilst
Chinese, Irish, and Caribbean workers died in their thousands in disease-ridden jungle swamps.
Panama is a peculiar place: a narrow, tropical isthmus of rainforest and mangrove-fringed
coasts that acts as the connective tissue between two great land masses.
Spanish conquistadors identified Panama as a crucial economic pinch point way back in
the 1500s. They knew that whoever could find a way to move people and
goods quickly across this tiny gap would control global trade and two previously
unconnected worlds. Yet, for another 300 years, nobody managed to pull it off.
In the early 1800s, getting from the East Coast of America to California
was an absolute nightmare. You had two options, and both were rubbish:
You could sail all the way around South America via Cape Horn (a journey of roughly
14,000 miles that would take about 4–6 months back then). Assuming your ship wasn't consumed
by the notoriously treacherous currents along Drake's Passage (which many were).
Or you could trudge overland across North America itself, which involved months of
gruelling wagon trails through deserts, mountains and badlands beset with bandits.
Along the way, you could enjoy amenities such as dysentery,
starvation, dehydration and the occasional arrow to the knee. Ending your days as an adventurer.
But there was a third option: a nifty, shortcut. You could simply sail down to Panama, then hack,
trudge, and trek your way across 50 miles of dense jungle. After which, you’d catch another ship on
the Pacific side heading north up to California. It sounds pretty easy and a lot more attractive
than the first two options. Except for the fact that this 50 mile jaunt across land meant canoeing
up the Chagres River, which was infested with alligators and prone to flash floods.
Then you would need to switch to a mule and trudge across crumbling Spanish trails that hadn't been
maintained in half a century. All of which would take about 8 days in total, assuming you survived
the onslaught of malaria, yellow fever, cholera, the blistering heat and murderous bandits.
Few people ever chose this third option for obvious reasons. That was until January 1848,
when gold was discovered at Sutter's Mill in California,
and within a few months, everything had changed.
Suddenly, tens of thousands of Americans, induced with gold fever, were desperate to get over to the
West Coast by any means possible. They were known as the California 49ers. A surprising
number of them chose the Panama route as it was much quicker than the first two options.
It was incredibly dangerous and plenty of people died, but for them, it was worth the risk to get
their hands on the juiciest gold claims. These were essentially the 'Bitcoin bros' of the day.
Almost overnight, the Panama route became clogged with traffic as thousands crammed
onto ships bound for the isthmus. Local boatmen and mule drivers made small fortunes,
charging extortionate prices to help people cross. Entire tent cities
sprang up on both coasts of Panama, full of impatient, transient 49ers.
There’s an old adage that the people who made the most in the Gold Rush were those
selling the shovels and just like those shovel-sellers, three men in New York saw
the pandemonium ensuing down in Panama and they instantly knew there was opportunity
extracting wealth from people's desire to get to California as quickly as humanly possible. So,
they decided to build a railroad across Panama (the first transcontinental railroad in the
Americas) assuming that, once it was complete, it would print money. Boy, were they correct.
The first of these three ambitious men was William Henry Aspinwall, a shipping magnate who already
owned the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. He was one of the wealthiest men in New York. A city on
the Atlantic coast of Panama would actually be named after him – but Aspinwall, Panama was later
renamed to Colón by the hispanic community, in honour of Christopher Columbus’ digestive tract.
The second opportunistic man was Henry Chauncey,
a Wall Street banker with deep pockets and deep connections.
The third man was probably the most interesting of the lot. John Lloyd Stephens wasn't some wealthy
magnate like the others; he was a celebrity explorer, a diplomat, and a best-selling author.
A decade earlier, he'd ventured deep into the jungles of Central America and rediscovered
the lost cities of the ancient Maya. He once bought an entire ruined Mayan city for just £50.
He'd written a book on Central America (several, in fact), so unlike Aspinwall and Chauncey,
he knew the environment and the jungle better than almost any man in America.
PART 2
In December 1848, the three men secured a contract with the government of New Granada
(present-day Colombia) to build a railroad across Panama. By April of the following year,
the Panama Railroad Company was officially incorporated in New York,
backed by $1,000,000 of startup capital – about $40 million today.
Construction began in May 1850. But from day one, the entire project was cursed.
The starting point for the Panama Railroad was Manzanillo island, which doesn't really exist
anymore because it's been consumed by the city of Colón. But to call Manzanillo an island in
the first place is pretty generous. It was a festering, waterlogged swamp covered in
mangroves and poisonous manchineel plants. And at high tide, most of it was completely underwater.
As I said, not a great start, but it gets worse.
Before a single piece of track could be laid,
the workers (who were mostly Irish or Chinese immigrants) had to hack
through thick and poisonous vegetation and then drive wooden piles deep into the muck. Finally,
they needed to build a causeway connecting the island to the Panamanian mainland.
Buildings to accommodate the workers had to be constructed on stilts to keep them
above the waterline. However, this was so difficult and time-consuming,
they simply towed abandoned ships from the California Gold Rush, which people had used
to travel from the East Coast of America to Panama, into the Manzanillo Bay and used
them as makeshift dormitories. These old boats were rotting, and full of mosquitoes and rats.
After the initial groundworks on Manzanillo Island were done,
they started to build out the route itself. The first eight miles passed through what one
engineer described as “a jungle of gelatinous swamps infested with alligators”. Workers had
to labour long hours in water up to four feet deep. The ground was so soft that countless
tonnes of gravel and rock had to be dumped just to create a solid foundation for the rails.
And just when they thought the ground couldn't get any softer, the rain arrived. Panama receives
up to 3.5 metres of rainfall every year, most of it during the rainy season between
May and December. I say season, but at seven months, that's basically most of the year.
The workers themselves were drenched to their bones, they worked in wet clothes and slept in wet
clothes. Their clothes rotted, as did their food, the wood, and most importantly, their morale.
But the real killer was the mosquitoes. In the 1850s, germ theory was still years away,
and the idea that tiny insects could transmit deadly illnesses was little
more than a Chinese whisper passed around camp. Workers simply slept in the open,
whilst the mosquitoes covered them from head to toe in bites. The surrounding swamps churned
out billions of mosquitoes, and before long, cholera and yellow fever swept through the camps.
Then there was the malaria, which caused fever, chills,
and delirium. All three of these had the unfortunate side effect of death;
men who seemed healthy at breakfast could have been dead by dinner time.
The railroad company brought in doctors, but there was almost
nothing they could do. They didn't even fully understand what they were fighting.
It is for this reason, and probably a few others, that the original chief engineer,
George Totten (who surveyed the route before construction began),
almost backed out of the project after he had taken one look at the jungle and
swamps. But the company was obviously paying him enough for him to stay.
The story was very different for the regular workers, however. The company recruited
them from wherever they could. Americans were lured by the promise of good wages,
Irish immigrants arrved, fleeing the aftermath of the Great Famine. And so to
came various workers from the Caribbean, Colombia, China, and across Europe.
During the first year of construction, the railroad was forging its way across low-lying
swampland and had not reached higher ground yet. This presented a significant problem: there was
nowhere they could build a proper cemetery for the deceased. You can’t really bury people in swamps.
With multiple people dying each day, corpses began piling up. It was becoming a huge
logistical problem that slowed the project down, but the Panama Railroad Company,
who weren’t going to let a few inconvenient corpses stand in the way of progress, came
up with a solution that was kind of ingenious – and would actually turn a profit to boot!
You see, it came to the attention of the higher-ups that most of the workers who died
were anonymous. They were known only by their first name, with no address and no next of kin.
It also happened that in the 1850s, medical schools around the world were absolutely
desperate for cadavers to train their students. The demand for fresh bodies far exceeded supply,
which led to a 19th-century side hustle: so-called 'resurrection men' made a small fortune
digging up graves to sell the corpses to medical schools. So the Panama Railroad Company thought:
why not turn what is a side hustle for others into a full-on revenue stream?
After all, they had ready access to plenty of raw goods (cadavers) and
a constant supply that didn't seem to be slowing down any time soon. Sure enough,
the company began pickling the unclaimed bodies of dead workers in large wooden
barrels and shipping them off to medical schools and hospitals around the world.
For years, the Panama Railroad Company became one of the world's biggest suppliers of human
cadavers. It wasn't just a small footnote in their company ledger;
it was one of the largest revenue streams in the business. The proceeds
from selling corpses were enough to pay for the company's hospital.
But it gets even weirder. The man behind the wholesale corpse operation was Dr J.A. Totten,
the company's chief physician and the brother of chief engineer George Totten.
So, whilst one brother was overseeing the construction that killed the workers,
the other was busy profiting from their deaths. I’d love to know what their childhood was like.
Despite the relentless death bell tolling along the steel of the tracks each morning
as the corpses piled higher and higher, the company had investors to please,
deadlines to meet, and a fortune awaiting them on the other side.
Rather than doing the moral thing, such as improving health and safety standards or
calling off the project altogether, they only amped up their recruitment efforts.
They focused on places that hadn't yet heard how deadly Panama truly was,
in particular, the Irish fleeing the Great Famine.
However, that avenue of workers and bodies dried up after an Irish-American
newspaper published an article in 1853 entitled 'Irish Graves in Panama',
warning readers of the 'fearful sacrifice of life' that awaited them. Cork newspapers also printed
testimonies from workers who had returned from the railroad, detailing their horrors.
So the company shifted its focus towards China. In March 1854, the clipper ship Sea
Witch arrived in Panama Harbour. It was famous for setting speed records on the high seas. On board
the Sea Witch that day were over 700 Chinese labourers. Most of them from southern China.
They had been promised decent wages in a far-off tropical land. And crucially,
their contracts also guaranteed a daily ration of opium, which seems odd,
but it was not unusual for Chinese labourers of the era to inbibe as a part of their daily lives.
But upon their arrival in this tropical land, the realisation hit that they’d been sent
to their death sentences. The Chinese workers were used for the worst sections of the route.
They were made to hack through dense jungle, drain swamps,
and haul ungodly amounts of earth in the most horrific conditions. Unlike the Irish workers,
many of the Chinese labourers had never encountered tropical diseases and had
zero immunity. Malaria and yellow fever cut through them like a scythe through wet grass.
Within weeks of their arrival, the Chinese were dying so quickly that
even the railroad company's management were beginning to worry. That says a lot,
because until now, they had given the grand total of zero shits over their workers' deaths.
And if you thought things couldn't get any worse or the management any crueler,
well, you obviously haven't been following this story very well.
Because when the directors back in New York learnt how much those daily opium rations were costing
them, they abruptly cut off the supply in direct violation of the workers' contracts. It turns out
opium withdrawal is a force to be reckoned with, and these men (who were already sick,
exhausted, and thousands of miles from home) were now suffering with yet another horrendous ailment.
And in the end, it just proved too much for them to take.
One morning, as Chief Engineer George Totten lay on a cot in his hut near the town of Matachín,
recovering from yet another bout of malaria, he was roused by someone screaming in horror
outside. He staggered out of bed and unbolted the door to find James Baldwin,
his assistant chief engineer, translucent with fear and drenched in sweat.
He implored Totten to come immediately, because the Chinese workers had begun
strapping themselves to trees and doing something YouTube won’t allow me to talk about.
Totten would later write that if he should live to be as old as Methuselah, he would never forget
what he saw that morning. When he and Baldwin arrived at the site, there were more than a
hundred Chinese workers dangling from trees. Most had used their own hair to loop their
long braids around their necks and tied the ends to tree limbs. Others had thrown themselves onto
their own machetes, and a few had tied stones to their clothing and simply jumped into the river.
Totten also reported some of the Chinese workers had paid Malay labourers to shoot
them and cut off their heads. From the surrounding brush, witnesses
described hearing high-pitched laughter followed by the blasts of blunderbusses.
I genuinely don't know what to say about that… so we’ll just move on.
So what did the company do in response to the mass “deciding not to wake up again” event? Obviously
their minds didn't turn to guilt or, God forbid, reforms to improve the situation for the remaining
workers – the company just saw a logistics problem. Management's primary concern was
replacing the dead Chinese workers – and ensuring the survivors didn’t go down the same path.
So, the surviving Chinese labourers were gradually phased out. But this
“phasing out” was almost as cruel as the horrors that had preceeded it. 197 of the
surviving Chinese workers were literally traded – like livestock – for Black Jamaican workers.
The going rate was $17.77 per Chinese man, paid to secure his relocation to
the sugar plantations of Jamaica. They had simply moved from one hell to another.
Oh, and remember the town of Matachín, where the mass no-more-lifing took place? A popular
tale soon spread that the name was a deliberate contraction of mata – Spanish for "kill" – and
chino – "Chinese." But it’s highly doubtful those in charge would have actually named a
town “Kill Chinese” – so it’s widely accepted to have been a Chinese whisper, rather than fact.
But the railroad wasn't done with its workers yet. Not even close.
By mid-1852, they had slogged through about 23 miles of swamp and burnt through roughly a
million dollars of the company's original capital. And now they had arrived at the
most seemingly insurmountable obstacle of the entire route: the Chagres River.
Now, crossing a river might not sound like a big deal. Railways cross rivers all the
time. But this wasn't some cutesy bridge over the River Thames. The Chagres was an absolute
beast of a waterway that could rise 40 feet in a single day during heavy rain. So in the morning
it could be all sunshine and rainbows, but by the late afternoon, the river has swallowed
the footings you just laid, washed away your tools, and drowned several of your co-workers.
The engineers initially built a wooden bridge at a place called Barbacoas. But in very little time,
the river rose dramatically and washed the entire bridge away in one fell swoop. The result of
months of work, back-breaking labour, and quite a few more dead workers was gone in a flash.
So, in its place, they built a 300-foot-long iron bridge that
was tall enough to survive the tantrums of the Chagres. It cost over a year to build,
a small fortune of the company’s cash, and a few more deaths of course.
And that was just one of almost 300 bridges and culverts the workers were required to
build along the route. Bearing in mind this railway was only 47 miles - long,
which meant there was a frankly absurd six bridges or culverts for every mile of track.
The construction of the track itself was also causing the company and the
workers a headache. Specifically the railroad sleepers (sometimes
called ties). They were originally made of pine, but humidity in Panama
sits at about 90% so the freshly placed pine sleepers rotted in under a year.
The solution was to use lignum vitae instead, one of the densest, hardest and heaviest timbers
in the world, found in trees native to the Caribbean and South America. It did the trick,
but necessitated the arduous new step of having to drill all the way through
the sleepers before the workers could drive spikes into them. Which doesn't
sound like much until you learn that they were doing all of this using a hand drill.
But if the swamps, the river, and the rotting infrastructure weren't enough,
the railroad still had one final boss to face: the Continental Divide itself.
At a place called Culebra the railroad had to cross the the Continental Divide. And the only
way to cross it with a railroad was to cut through it. Its summit was only 287 feet above sea level,
which is a mere speed bump as far as mountains go, but an obstacle nonetheless. Workers dug a
trench over 40 feet deep and roughly 2,500 feet long, carving through solid earth and
rock at the highest point of the isthmus. They used explosives to break the rock,
then loaded the debris by hand onto rail cars. it was backbreaking work, but their efforts later
served as the template for the significantly larger Culebra Cut that would be needed for
the Panama Canal fifty years later – subscribe to the channel if you don’t want to miss that one.
It wasn't just the workers that the railroad was claiming. Do you remember
John Lloyd Stephens? The celebrity explorer and Panama Railroad Company co-founder. Well,
in the spring of 1852, whilst visiting the construction site,
Stephens was struck down by malaria. he died that October, aged only 46. Just about one
year for every mile of the railroad he'd helped conceive. He never saw it completed.
Of the three co-founders, Stephens was the only one who had regularly visited Panama. Aspinwall
and Chauncey were quite content to manage things from the comfort of their New York offices,
far away from the malaria and the daily horrors of the project itself.
By late 1854, progress had been slow and the death count numerous. So the company
adopted a two-pronged attack from here on out. They split into two teams. One from
the Atlantic side pushed westward. They had it worse, as there were more swamps, jungle,
mosquitoes and general shittery on that side.
The second team, the Pacific team, pushed eastward from Panama City. They
were able to make quicker progress due to the slighly less murderous terrain.
And then, on a wet evening on January 27th, 1855 the two teams met at the summit.
George Totten, the long-suffering chief engineer who by this point had survived
multiple bouts of malaria, drove the final spike into a crosstie by the light of sputtering whale
oil lamps in the pouring rain. The Atlantic and Pacific Oceans were now connected by rail.
The following day, a locomotive with freight and passenger cars made the first complete journey
across Panama from ocean to ocean. It may have only been a journey of fort-seven miles. But to
get to this point had taken four and a half years. An estimated 12,000 deaths. And a final price tag
of around $8 million (about $280 million today). Eight times the original budget of $1 million.
But the directors of the Panama Railroad Company didn't care one iota, because almost overnight,
it started printing money, exactly as the three founders had predicted. A one-way ticket was
$25 worth of gold - roughly $930 today. And do you know what? People paid it. Of course they did,
because the alternative was a six-month voyage around Cape Horn with a strong likelihood of
death, or a relentless and exhausting expedition across the American interior with a strong
liklihood of death – or of course they could attempt to chop and trudge their way through
the Panama jungle on foot, as many had done before, with the a strong liklihood of death.
Within a decade, the Panama Railroad was generating $11 million a year in revenue
and briefly became the highest-priced stock on the New York Stock Exchange. A single
share changed hands for a whopping $295. To put that in perspective:
a typical railroad stock on the NYSE at the time traded for somewhere between $50 and $100 a share.
But the problem with the Panama Railroad is that it was only so valuable because it held the
monopoly on quickly traversing the continent, and it didn't take long before that monopoly crumbled.
On the 10th of May 1869, just 14 years after the first train had trundled across the bloody tracks
of the isthmus, a golden spike was driven into the ground at Promontory Summit, Utah,
completing the first transcontinental railroad across the United States.
All of a sudden, you could travel from New York to California without having to take a
boat down to Panama, a vastly overpriced train ride, and then pay for yet another boat ride
up the western coast. For the vast majority of travellers, the Panama Railroad Company became
obsolete overnight, and the company's share price collapsed from $295 to $60.
The railroad lived on, barely. The French briefly revived its fortunes
in the 1880s when they attempted to build a canal across Panama,
and suddenly the railroad was vital for hauling equipment and men through the jungle.
But in 1904, the French surrendered and the Americans took over the canal project. Once
again, the railroad found a second life as the logistical backbone of their construction efforts:
every day, it hauled enormous quantities of excavated earth out of the Culebra Cut.
By the way, if you think the 12,000 deaths building the Panama Railroad was bad,
the French effort to construct a canal cost in the region of 22,000 deaths and
$287 million. And it was all for nothing really – as I’d previously mentioned but
feel strangely oblidged, as an Englishman, to say once more – in the end, they surrendered.
Anyway, that’s a story for a future video.
When the Americans finally finished the Panama Canal in 1914, without surrendering,
it was essentially the death knell for the railroad. Ships no longer needed to stop at all:
there was no unloading in the harbour, no rail crossing,
and no reloading on the other side. They simply sailed straight through.
By the time Panama took control of the railroad in 1979 as part of the Canal Treaties,
it was already a shadow of its glory days. By the 1990s, trains were crawling along at
10 miles per hour on crumbling infrastructure, losing millions of dollars a month. The jungle
was slowly reclaiming the route that 12,000 people had died to painstakingly carve out.
It was eventually privatised and modernised in the early 2000s, and today it still runs.
Carrying shipping containers mostly. You won't find any gold-fevered prospectors
aboard its carriages today. They do a weekly tourist run between Panama City and Colón,
with a glass-domed observation car and views of the canal. Catering mostly to cruise ship
passengers. A one-way ticket will set you back $25. Which funnily enough,
is the same price in gold, that the 49ers once paid to cross the isthmus almost two centuries
ago. If there's one lesson we can take away from the Panama Railroad and the canal that followed,
it's that lives really matter; just not as much as gold, apparently. Thanks for watching.
Ask follow-up questions or revisit key timestamps.
The video recounts the harrowing history of the construction of the Panama Railroad in the mid-19th century. Built to connect the Atlantic and Pacific coasts during the California Gold Rush, the project became one of the most profitable enterprises of its time, but at a horrific human cost, claiming approximately 12,000 lives due to tropical diseases, harsh conditions, and exhaustion. The narrative highlights the corporate greed involved, including the shocking practice of selling deceased workers' bodies to medical schools, and the eventual obsolescence of the railroad following the completion of the U.S. transcontinental railway and the later Panama Canal.
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